Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I catch the train to work, so my only drives are on the weekend for fun, and some errands during the week

Two cars would just be silly

Guess the beamer's gotta go then

On a side note, I never appreciated my car more than when I had Alvin's auto as a daily driver. Daily and weekender is the way to go. You try to combine both and you're taking your compromise work chariot out for weekends = not the same.

f**k that combine all the way.

And by combine, i mean be a man and deal with the uncomfortableness.

I had 6/8 coils slammed and wound all the way up, solid bushes and mounts, bride bucket that was on the floor with high bolster than squashed my balls, 330mm wheel with a 50mm spacer, a tripple heavy duty single playe button clutch and nismo diff.

I LOVED driving that thing as a daily. The ONLY drawback was police attention. The way it handled made even a short drive at the speed limit fun.

Yeah I thought up to 30% less would be pretty normal, but the problem was I was only getting 300-350kms to a full tank on a standard ecu with 100 octane, wasn't very impressed with that.

well the stock tune is overly rich and that's really all you will get from anything other than highway driving anyway

Birds I know E85 wasn't made for Economy, but what kind of mileage are you getting around town for a full tank?

I'm not the best example for economy simply because I race a lot / enjoy my car, and 80km/h is 4th gear territory for me (always like to have power on tap).

So with that said, my daily driving is 17-18L/100km on E85. I fill up with about 52 litres (~$60 thanks to United's rip off pricing now) and that's usually just shy of 300km.

Mind you, my fuel economy before that wasn't fantastic...about 400km to a tank on 98, with a pretty rich tune. I used to get 450 on the standard ECU with fresh O2 sensors.

Have you changed them in your car? They make a hell of a difference if they are worn and you're running a closed loop tune.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...