Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep, me too. Only motul fluid i use is their RBF600 Brake fluid. Have had no issues with that whatsoever.

Their oils on the other hand, cost me a couple of lifters in my 25, and also caused issues in my S14. Changed oils (And replaced lifters) and all was fine.

My tuner used to stock motul, and had quite a few problems, and now he himself stocks and uses nulon. He also Carries ULX oils.

Was Motul Turbolight 4100 10w40 in my sr, and motel 300v chrono 10w40 in my 33/rb25.

Switched to penrite in the s14 and put in new lifters and changed to nulon in the 33 and all was good.

I thought there may have been an underlying issue with the lifters in the 33, but the problem started from that oil change. Tuner said he had had the same issues with a couple of 33's he tunes/looks after.

In my case it was turbolight but I don't think it's fair to say that was what spun the bearing. It was a 200,000+ km motor running 300rwkw and was a track car of some sort in JP.

However the as soon as I changed from shockproof to motul for the gearbox it became a bag of dicks overnight and lost 5th. All gears started to crunch a little and generally felt less tight.

The diff always worked but a few runs on the skidpan was enough to kill the diff fluid. It would make a lit of weird ticking noises after a few runs and would never return until a fluid change

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Never had issues with shockproof, but have not used it in freshly rebuilt boxes. When I put my OS gears in I won't be using it.

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate.

It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Isn't it funny how views over 10 years change.

Ugggh I run Motul Htech 100 in my 33... and I've got lifter tick by the sounds of it.I used to run Penrite racing 10 10ths (10w/40) then JustJap recommended the Motul..

Looks like I'll be changing oils sooner rather than later.

Ugggh I run Motul Htech 100 in my 33... and I've got lifter tick by the sounds of it.I used to run Penrite racing 10 10ths (10w/40) then JustJap recommended the Motul..

Looks like I'll be changing oils sooner rather than later.

The precise symptoms I was talking about. My 33, and a couple of other customers had the same issues after using motul. Not sure why.

Penrite Racing 10, 10w40, just changed mine at roughly 7000km while car is off the road and has been going well in the 33 gtr, no problems experienced. Other people use HPR 10w50 with the added zinc and rate it well also for an engine that has done a fair amount of km's.

Refreshed a gearbox from a 33 gtr recently also. Cost of new bearings, synchros is fairly cheap from Japan, just take a few weeks to get all the parts. Longer if have to order more parts during the refresh. If you pay someone to do it and provide all the parts it's not that much in labour. Compared to having a crunching gearbox that is crap to drive I know what I'd take.

Once refreshed of course the gearbox feels brand new basically, worth the money. If you are not hard on boxes, the refresh will likely last for a long time.

Never used Redline oils in the gearbox and probably never will.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...