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lol sigh. you guys are no help.

why not just take advantage of the hot-cold pressure drop then? Get a low pressure atomising nozzle and run boost from the comp housing into an air tight tank with the other side plumbed just before the TB with a check valve.

get it together for $20 bucks, could even pick up a set of steak knives within the budget if you wanted.

but wait, theres more.

^^ classic stuff boys

lol sigh. you guys are no help.

why not just take advantage of the hot-cold pressure drop then? Get a low pressure atomising nozzle and run boost from the comp housing into an air tight tank with the other side plumbed just before the TB with a check valve.

get it together for $20 bucks, could even pick up a set of steak knives within the budget if you wanted.

but wait, theres more.

done a little search today and read up one the same thing stated, a metal sealed tank and run line from boost source to pressure tank then connect pipe before th/b, cant hurt right ?

might get those steak knifes after all too..... lol

It needs to be atomised to the max, and I'm afraid that 20psi or there abouts isn't going to cut it.

My setup had a 150psi pump, and the new setups have a 200psi pump.

Have you seen the output of the nozzle at that pressure? It's like steam. 20psi woulda make it dribble and be useless for proper atomisation.

What you are trying to do is re-invent a system that has already been tested and design proven before.

If you do want to spend time wasting your time and money, and potentially destroy your engine, then I guess that's your choice.

You can get an atomizer that will run at very low pressure but the benefits will be minimal at best.

Mafia is right that the kits come with big pressure pumps, but im not sure if they opperate at that sort of pressure continuously.

You can easily do an effective pre turbo WI setup the way I described. Boost pushing through an atomizer before the turbo.

You will need a ball and spring like a turbotech to prevent boost getting through before target pressure though. Otherwise you will get a trickle of droplets coming through before you hit target boost pressure. This will work and has been done before.

^^ classic stuff boys

done a little search today and read up one the same thing stated, a metal sealed tank and run line from boost source to pressure tank then connect pipe before th/b, cant hurt right ?

might get those steak knifes after all too..... lol

When to tank releases the pressure it will drop down but due to the small hose/line trying to fill it it will not repressurize or hold a standard pressure.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

So I got the snow performance kit stage 2

Just saving some money and then going to drop by and get JEZ to have a crack at it.

Few questions.

Can I run this without a tune and be safe for the time being if I decided to install it?

What nozzle should I be using on a 270-300kw setup?

What boost should I be starting it at if I am maxing 20-21psi?

Cheers guys :)

Be fine without a tune, i have run from 100cc through to 340cc on a my stockish stagea..goes best with 100cc(because its untuned, and makes f**kall power.., even on 40 degree

day goes like a cool night.

What jets do you have, or have available?, around 250-300cc would be in ballpark..probally the lower number , start at 7-8 psi ish.

I just fitted a pre turbo rice racing atomiser to my mates vl the other day. It runs 10.4@133mph on a 98 /10 percent meth mix, but suffers

heatsoak and melt plugs from det..either from tune or heatsoak related tune issue . Anyway fitted kit, took it out to a powercruise style event for the day, ended running 450cc(straight water), no bog with

CDi ignition..28psi of boost.

Plugs stayed killer...

before it was melting of the electrodes clean of at bottom of plug..not sure how the motors survived this long really .

With retune and new camshaft and maybe more boost should be good..

Also no heatsoak in intake..nice and cool...before you coudn't touch it..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

So it wouldnt cause issues such as leaning out higher in the rev range due to more power being made?

The tune of course isnt on the edge but just wanted to make sure.

The lowest boost I can run is 20psi

So thinking of just strapping the kit on and start boost at 8psi all the way through.

Also just using straight water until we go to tune it.

It won't/can't run leaner simply because you're introducing a water mist into the inlet airstream.

That can/will only happen if you adjust the ECU and reduce the injector duty cycle at each rev/load point.

You should find that best results actually come from leaning off the fuel and increasing the advance.

To start with I'd suggest a good starting point is the 8-10psi mark, and ramp up the WI pump duty so it's hitting maximum around 16-18psi.

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