Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That ain't gonna happen.

Firstly it doesn't hit positive pressure that often, never at all just before I park it up. Within 2 seconds of deactivating id imagine there is no traces left anywhere anyway

Even if there somehow was a trace of it left in the chamber the heat would surely evaporate it off very quickly

And by that theory then you could almost say that if you give any car a blast going up the street before parking then you could have unburnt fuel sitting in the chambers?

  • 1 month later...

Who is running the snow performance stage 2 kit with the resiviour mounted in the boot?

I was reading the install instructions and it is recommended to run their solenoid if the reservoir is rear mounted to avoid syphoning in the line. How is it wired in? Is it a NC solenoid and you use the pump signal as a trigger for the solenoid?

Also, mafia said the lines and fittings aren't great in the snow kits, any recommendation as to what is the best replacement?

I've ordered an Aquamist HFS-3.1 which has all of the fail safes built in as standard. It also operates differently to the other kits in that it runs at constant pressure and operates by opening a fast acting valve to release the pressure to the jet. 

Time will tell how well it works!

On 29/07/2016 at 6:20 PM, fmlycar said:

Who is running the snow performance stage 2 kit with the resiviour mounted in the boot?

I was reading the install instructions and it is recommended to run their solenoid if the reservoir is rear mounted to avoid syphoning in the line. How is it wired in? Is it a NC solenoid and you use the pump signal as a trigger for the solenoid?

Also, mafia said the lines and fittings aren't great in the snow kits, any recommendation as to what is the best replacement?

No it comes of the control unit, when you turn the ignition off the power to the head unit cuts out, this triggers the solenoid.  The lines are ok, but not long enough.  I just made sure I got some more with my order.  The quick connectors they supply are the push in metal ones, you do the fitting up then push the hose into place and it stays there.  But they can fail if you are connecting/disconnecting a number of times.  I still have them on my cut out solenoid, but because I was experimenting with the pump and reservoir location and setup they failed there so I went to proper 'do 'em up' jobs.

Have a look at this: 

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, tridentt150v said:

No it comes of the control unit, when you turn the ignition off the power to the head unit cuts out, this triggers the solenoid.  The lines are ok, but not long enough.  I just made sure I got some more with my order.  The quick connectors they supply are the push in metal ones, you do the fitting up then push the hose into place and it stays there.  But they can fail if you are connecting/disconnecting a number of times.  I still have them on my cut out solenoid, but because I was experimenting with the pump and reservoir location and setup they failed there so I went to proper 'do 'em up' jobs.

Have a look at this: 

 

Cheers. What sort of 'do em up' fitting did you end up using? I'm half considering using an4 fittings and getting their braided hose. I could probably mount all mine in the engine bay but it would be a tight fit. So I think I'll mount it in the boot and pop the pump under the false floor where the spare used to be.

Edited by fmlycar

I just used the supplied 1/4" plastic hose, ran it with the brake lines under the car.  Never went through the cab, but I did for the wiring.

Also the 'do 'em up' fittings were just threaded nickel plated brass with ogive stuff.  I got them off a hydraulic store here in town - no idea of the brand, generic stuff anyway.

I didn't use any fancy bling bling braided or vivid colour line.  If you look at the thread I posted you will see that my under bonnet set up is innocuous and to a casual inspection will not be seen as anything other than motor stuff.  We all know they zero in on the blow off valve anyway lol.

 

  • 3 months later...

G'day gouys,

Here is the link to a thread I started last year on my testing and results from using water and water meth injection on my FJ20 turbo. 

Two weeks ago after a few more tweaks, I made 455hp with water meth injection. In the mid range, i saw gains of up to 125hp and 85hp at peak power.

Cheers.

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...

thread bump.

has anyone had experience with WMI on diesels? ive taken my AEM kit out of my skyline and fitted to my '92 Rodeo with 2.8TD. the engine is stock with only a catch can and bleed valve set to 14psi modified. ive yet to experiment much but have tested quite a bit. 

currently have the medium nozzle fitted which i believe is 500cc/min. with straight water i feel no power difference and no change at all in EGT. even switching it on up a hill with steady temp i see less than a 5C drop.

with a 50/50 mix its a complete animal. its like driving a new model diesel with an estimated 30-40% more torque with boost in 1000-1200rpm earlier. peak EGT before and with water is 515C. with 50/50 peak temp has been 565C although boost is higher so its not really comparing apples. hills i used to climb at 70km/h in 4th, i can now stay in 5th at 100km/h.  im going to drop back to the smallest nozzle which i believe is 250cc/min and compare again.

 

When i have time im going to fit another pyro in the intake somewhere to see temps as im not intercooled so i expect decent drops with meth injecting. anyone have clues why EGT's dont decrease when activated compared to not injecting?? i was expecting 50C at a guess but got nothing. i never monitored EGT in my skyline so nothing else to compare to

 

cheers 

 

  • 2 months later...

Are people still utilising water injection.

I used the available information to work out injector sizing, as I will only be using water it worked out to be 175ml/min.

The total cost of purchasing the kit, instalation and tuning should be around $2000 (rough guesstimate).

Compared to E85, which I find logistically hard to get and 3 times the cost to install and tune, it seems like a viable option for some small gains and added insurance for a relatively small outlay.

Car is a 15 STI with basic bolt ons making around 200 kw on ECUTEK.

It will be set to start at around 5 psi and full at max (around 20).

The boxers don't play well with heat from my understanding and pumping in a small amount of water should be beneficial.

Any inrormation in relation to my points or theories are most welcome.

Finding a tuner who is "full bottle" (pun intended) is also required, a few places seem to only want to do flex and are attempting to steer me away from water injection, I like Pulse and will need to talk to them more, or maybe UNIGROUP, although it's been years since I've dealt with them and I am unsure on their opinions or experience with water injection.

Thanks.

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Of course people are still using it, for the same reason you would prefer it over e85.

Thanks mate, I've been a bit disconnected from the performance world, there's lots of talk on the interwebs about water injection but I feel with SAU I can rely on correct unbiased information.

10 hours ago, mlr said:

Thanks mate, I've been a bit disconnected from the performance world, there's lots of talk on the interwebs about water injection but I feel with SAU I can rely on correct unbiased information.

on my skyline it had various issues last time at tuners preventing me from winding it up or tuning to WMI specifically. was making 350hp@wheels at 16psi then WMI was added on top as an added safety and 50/50 mix made another 12hp. (think it was a 500cc nozzle but possibly 1000cc) prob ran cooler but didnt have EGT gauge

 

ive just pulled it out of my ute as im upgrading but ill be fitting it to my next one again. i only noticed gains in my ute with methanol in the mix and no EGT drop with water only so ill continue to mix

 

  • 1 month later...

I'm running WMI on my MR2 Spyder turbo. 

With an intake temp of around 58 degrees Celcius, if i switch on the WMI it drops to around 38 degrees Celcius within a few seconds. However once you come to a stop it increases again but thats ok. 

Thinking of getting a setup for the Skyline at some point but not just yet. Lots of other bits to sort first. 

  • 4 years later...

Hopefully a bit of a thread revival!

About to purchase a WMI set up for my r33 gtst. Plan is to run 100% water rather than a mix. 

Was hoping to hear from guys running just a post intercooler nozzle and see if there was any feedback on distribution amongst cylinders?

Hoping to get away with a post cooler nozzle rather than the added complexity of direct port - however if that’s the way to go then so be it!

 

On 21/09/2021 at 5:17 PM, fullboost33 said:

Hopefully a bit of a thread revival!

About to purchase a WMI set up for my r33 gtst. Plan is to run 100% water rather than a mix. 

Was hoping to hear from guys running just a post intercooler nozzle and see if there was any feedback on distribution amongst cylinders?

Hoping to get away with a post cooler nozzle rather than the added complexity of direct port - however if that’s the way to go then so be it!

 

I've got a water/meth kit for my car but not fully got around to fitting the kit yet (bit like the car really...).  I haven't been reading up on it for a while but from what I have seen is that people seem to be moving towards individual runner installs.  Obviously a lot more complexity involved with an individual setup.  There would still be sizeable gains to be had regardless of the setup.

My recollection was that there was minimal gains to be had with higher content of methanol.

I'd still love to see data on whether there are still gains to be had by going E85 AND Water/Meth as that was my plan to see if there were further benefits to be had over E85 on it's own.  Obviously water/meth lowers the intake charge temp which is something that is not as much of an issue with E85.

 

On 21/09/2021 at 5:52 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Obviously water/meth lowers the intake charge temp which is something that is not as much of an issue with E85.

but the colder the air, the denser it is, the more fuel you need to keep it at your target AFR and that means more power :) 

Still plenty of gains to run E85 to increase your knock threashold and water/meth to chemically further cool down your compressed air.

For any street car that is more than overkill - you would only see this kind of setup in a serious competition car for WTAC or big 1/2 or 1 mile drag races, etc.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...