Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying Non Turbo Silvia, 180Sx Or R32-33 Skyline

Nathan95p

By Nathan95p,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Ruxis Veteran

Ruxis

Posted
Posted

6k should be heaps mate, check out gum tree for 180s and s13s. theres tones on there and on hardtuned.net

ive seen very clean 33 gtsts sell for 6k low kms great nick (my friends) so you should get a non turbo for that price!

also dont forget to factor in insurance and rego :)

Mitz Enthusiast

Mitz

Posted
Posted

Non turbo skylines are usually more expensive due to them being more rare, but mostly due to P plater demand.

A non turbo skyline in good nick will go from 8k to 12k (if your talking r33).

Hell my r33 GTS cost 12 grand 3 years ago and I just bought my gtst with double the power for much less.

Like Ruxis said, gumtree will have alot of them but you can't go wrong with carsales either.

BakemonoRicer Grand Master

BakemonoRicer

Posted
Posted

Prepare to spend double that to get an S13 or R32 into smooth running condition.

I bought my S13 for 6.5k. I only replaced the parts necessary and that figure ended up doubling.

Given that, my S13 was immaculate, if you buy one in bad condition be prepared to spend a lot more to get it up to stratch.

I've searched gumtee and carsales for the past few months, and no S13 silvia on there is worth buying given their condition.

Your best bet would be a late model R33....then sell that when you get your full licence.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

No he doesn't, or he'd have said a Ti. Ti= SSS without the badge or insurance policy high prices.

but the badge is important for young blokes

It's like when I was in primary how I'd get pissed off my mum would buy me lynx shoes when I wanted nike air max :yucky:

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

I've been watching for S13's and 180's for my P-plate son for a while. Not many out there and yes, a few $k more and needing work. They are just getting older now.

We went to look at a couple of preludes too around $5k and they needed work as well.

I'd strongly suggest that you budget an extra $1k when looking at older used cars just to take care of odds and ends that will need to be sorted.

Good luck with the search though.

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

id buy a little run around, and save for the turbo version when youre off your p's.

but, if you do want it now, search for the neatest car you can for the price, that way you can get a decent resale value.

hope this helps.

good luck.

Ph@t-G Rising Star

Ph@t-G

Posted
Posted

The car that you look at should be dictated that how far you're stretched with the $6k in your wallet. Are you bang on $6k when you get a car or do you have room to move north of that?

Bear in mind that a $6k car will never be just $6k. You need to factor in other sunk costs as well such as insurance and rego. Also there will always be something that needs to be fixed on top of the car price. If you DIY, great cause you can save money. If not, then another money sink hole.

I got my 33 gtst for a great price and it came as clean as they come nowadays. Having said that I still had to put in extra money on top of the price to get a few things totally neat.

If you're on the Ps, might be a good idea to get a little run-about that you can have a bit of fun with for the time being. Once you're off your Ps, then you can go wild, and by then you'll have more coin and cars that you want are even cheaper.

Captain Natro Grand Master

Captain Natro

Posted
Posted

In all honesty it's not worth going NA anything, pain in the neck to convert everything over if u want to go turbo (or better, wastelanders no what I'm on about). Rb20 natros are painfully slow same can be said for ca18s, best bet is a natro sr20 or late natro rb25 32.

If I had my time again I'd stick with my daily and not buy my natro 33.... But it's up to u man.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...