Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On ‎9‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 8:54 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Wiring-

DSC_7900_1.jpg

DSC_7901.jpg

DSC_7894.jpg

I bought myself an el cheapo Ching Long Lie AC/DC TIG welder so I can do some stainless and alloy wleding.  I've had a bit of a practice to start to get the hang of how it works.  It's a lot harder than MIG welding but I think I'll get the hang of it after a bit (ie a shitload!) more practice.  Just getting the hang of heat control at the moment-

DSC_7880_1.jpg

DSC_7887.jpg

DSC_7902.jpg

grab yourself a gas lense for your tig torch and the end result of these welds should be far cleaner...

Thanks @mr_rbman, I've got a full set of sizes ordered, just waiting for them to turn up.  I think a big part of it as well is I was running it too hot too which was bringing in more impurities.  Now that I've dropped back the amps a bit it seems better.  Still a lot of practice before I'm ready to weld up my exhaust!

  • Like 1
27 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Thanks @mr_rbman, I've got a full set of sizes ordered, just waiting for them to turn up.  I think a big part of it as well is I was running it too hot too which was bringing in more impurities.  Now that I've dropped back the amps a bit it seems better.  Still a lot of practice before I'm ready to weld up my exhaust!

Just had a look at the wiring pics and had an instant headache :)

Look at it in person @Nismo 3.2ish then you'll know what a headache it really is!!  Nearly at the end of it now though.  I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do.  There will be a few other additional bits and pieces (additional fuel pump, water/meth kit, etc) but I can see light at the end of the wiring tunnel now!

I'm hoping to hit the key (not to start it just to get oil pressure up and check sensors and other ECU inputs to make sure they're all talking to each other) within the next 2-3 weeks.

 

32 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Look at it in person @Nismo 3.2ish then you'll know what a headache it really is!!  Nearly at the end of it now though.  I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do.  There will be a few other additional bits and pieces (additional fuel pump, water/meth kit, etc) but I can see light at the end of the wiring tunnel now!

I'm hoping to hit the key (not to start it just to get oil pressure up and check sensors and other ECU inputs to make sure they're all talking to each other) within the next 2-3 weeks.

 

Some job mate, looking forward to see the outcome :cool:

Thanks mate.

Fuel system will be Nismo pump (which was all I was running on the previous setup) acting as a lift pump into an under car surge tank running twin 044's that will be staged so the secondary will only kick in at a certain range so it's not running 2 all the time.  The Haltech will be monitoring the fuel pressure and act as a failsafe if there's ever a drop in pressure (cut timing or spark).

I'm running through the normal supply pipe plus using the original return pipe as the secondary supply pipe.  I'm running braided AN6 hose as the new return.  Hopefully that doesn't cause any extra restriction but I'll see how it goes.

I'll be mainly running E85 but it will be setup as flex fuel so I've mounted the ethanol sensor in the return line.

 

Finished wiring up the coils to the CDI module, just need to get the right plug leads and then the ignition side of the engine is finally done!

DSC_8001.jpg

DSC_8002.jpg

I went and picked up all of the parts to build my exhaust yesterday. It will be twin 2.75" dumps/front pipes into single 4" all the way through. All up it came to $1300 (excluding dumps and front pipes) so it's going to be an expensive little exercise even with me making it (unless I realise at some point that I'm waaaay out of my depth and get someone else to make it!). It'll all be V Band clamps so provided my welds are ok it should look pretty nice. No mid muffler and rear muffler is a 4" straight through Magnaflow so hopefully it's quiet enough. In my town there are only about 5 Skylines that I know of so I really don't want to stand out from the crowd too much as there's nowhere to hide!

  • Like 3

Exhaust bits-

DSC_8007.jpg

DSC_8008.jpg

Damn 4" pipe is huge! It's going to be a battle fitting it all under there! The Magnaflow muffler is beautiful, I'm very sceptical about the quietness though....

  • Like 1

They mot quiet mufflers lol.. but sound tough though, my fabricator usually uses them on all his V8's and other exhuasts usually with mid mufflers though.  I'll have an idea in few days as my 2530 has 1 magnaflow and large hks muffler right toward the rear.. 

  • Like 1

Yeah I'm a bit worried!  I can always throw another muffler in later on if it's too bad.  No doubt it will sound amazing but amazing and legal are at both ends of the scale!

  • Like 2

Started re-routing the passenger side wiring harness outside the engine bay to tidy it up a bit and also keep the wiring away from the hot side of the engine.  I've had to lengthen a few of the wires but most of them are long enough already.  It will be all neatly mounted along the upper panel-

 

DSC_8011.jpg

 

On ‎27‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 2:56 PM, Shoota_77 said:

I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do.  

When you do get around to mounting the widebands, have a quick read of where it is recommended to fit them.
I'm sure they'll perform fine no matter where you put them, but longevity is probably the aim behind this (compared to being mounted immediately behind the turbo).

WBC1.jpg

Cheers for the heads up!

The easiest way to do it would have been to use the normal sensor position but unfortunately that's a no no!  Finding the space to put them both is going to be the tricky bit. I'd say they'll be a bit less than 1 metre so hopefully it works out ok.  Someone needs to come up with 90 degree O2 sensors! (If they don't already that is). It's a bit of a surprise they don't seem to have got much more compact over the years.

Thanks again.

 

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

mount it before the cat pointing toward the gearbox

I'm running the twin wideband kit so I've got two to try and fit down there somewhere within the primary pipes before they split into 2.

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ahhh gotcha, well I have a solution for that problem.. go single LOL

just kidding :)

All in good time.....

Whatever power it makes will be approximately 4.7 times my driving ability so it should do the job for now!

I will do it but I'm desperately fighting the urge.

Hopefully I'll win the mental battle and get big brakes or a 6 speed before I chase more power.  I don't like my chances though. Unfortunately being in sales I get pretty sizeable quarterly bonuses that generally get evaporated on car parts VERY quickly. I know that a big single kit will come out of part of one of those bonuses at some point.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...