Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gt-R V-Spec & V-Spec Ii Register (Inc N1 V-Spec & V-Spec Ii Models)


Recommended Posts

Anyway boys let’s get back on track.............

This V-Spec 2 that is in Melbourne - http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=AGC-AD-15966156&Cr=1

The more I look at the ad the more I'm convinced how attractive the car is.

Let me quote this from the ad:

· This car is original down to the radio, shift knob, shift boot and standard exhaust system, with only the addition of a MOMO steering wheel. It also retains the ultra-rare factory forged BBS 17x8 inch wheels with as close to factory spec tyres as available Since arriving at our workshop in Australia it has undergone a full service including changing all the fluids: gearbox, transfer case, differentials, engine oil, coolant and brake fluid. The car comes with all books from Japan as well as the de-registration paper and auction sheet to verify the kilometres and that the car does not have an accident history. The vehicle will also come with a Victorian roadworthy certificate, 12 months registration and optional warranty.

Has anyone looked at the car? I'd love to know how it presents in real life. They all look good in pics....

That said, condition can be improved with money, missing rare parts can also be purchased but at a substantial premium.

Books, De-reg papers, auction reports and being accident free is a different kettle of fish.

The car is located at: Carizma International 21 Duke St, Abbotsford, Vic 3067

Please let us know what you think if you have a look at it.

Cheers...... Bob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So $30k drive away after on road costs.

Unfortunately cant see the auction papers clearly for grade and markings etc even after capturing and increasing view using paint.net. A 4b or 4.5 would be exciting. A phone call is required but as Bob said (and it's probably keeping you awake at night) your post above has me thinking finances. JOC would be handy about now but you would expect legit as papers etc posted in advertisement. Looking forward for some one to report back after casting a careful eye over this one. A flight to Melb may be in order for Tuesday Bob?.

Edit. Top right hand box has a 3.5 in it.

Edited by Sinista32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So $30k drive away after on road costs.

Unfortunately cant see the auction papers clearly for grade and markings etc even after capturing and increasing view using paint.net. A 4b or 4.5 would be exciting. A phone call is required but as Bob said (and it's probably keeping you awake at night) your post above has me thinking finances. JOC would be handy about now but you would expect legit as papers etc posted in advertisement. Looking forward for some one to report back after casting a careful eye over this one. A flight to Melb may be in order for Tuesday Bob?.

Edit. Top right hand box has a 3.5 in it.

Yep 3.5.......

I may be able to afford the car and flight, BUT not the DIVORCE!!!!!!!!!

Bob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep 3.5.......

I may be able to afford the car and flight, BUT not the DIVORCE!!!!!!!!!

Bob.

High risk for high returns Bob?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, might do, I might on sell this one. Still looking for an N1, still.................

You dont have to look for too long, one is up tommorrow at USS Tokyo, 50,000kms, grade 4B, passed in last week at around $43K L&C. $55K+? large should get it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thankfully no sign of rust in mine, but I fully expect that some will come to light when I have the paint redone and replace all of the mouldings and rubbers in time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How many changes to the ADM Bob, 128 right?

The aerial and side indicators were added to meet local compliance, amongst other things...gives it an RC Car look :)

Edited by Marko R1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod.  Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm. Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it. Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not. Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often. Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD. Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road. The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.
    • Anyone know or have the timing specs for these cams?   i have messaged JUN for two months with zero response    they are 288in/288ex 11.6 lift
    • That would be a rarity. You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.
    • I've had these LEDs and a LED EP34 flasher relay in the car since 2020. No fuses were popped either. I'll multimeter and clean off the tarnish tomorrow. From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem.
    • Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay. And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay. Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.
×
×
  • Create New...