Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 7 months later...

Wow it's been a while since I've updated this thread

Let's see.... the car has been off the road for the last 6-7 months while I save and stock pile parts.

I've been driving an auto civic around..... yes a civic, please don't think bad of me :worship:

:P

So, now for the parts.

RB26 cam covers, also picked up the cam gear backing plate and a pair of -10 breathers

nVdlLGg.jpg

Oil catch can/washer bottle combo

fT4qoQJ.jpg

  • Like 1

Its about time some updates got made! Haha.

Thats a Hi Octance can setup yeah? Very nice mate.

Also, pics of civic :P

Yeh HiOctane catch can

No pics of the civic, it's bad enough that I own it, don't want people to know what it looks like :P

The cam covers were sent to be painted earlier in the week, just waiting on the baffles for them

The car is due on the hoist hopefully monday. Drop the gearbox and pull out the old sump and install the new one.

Install everything else then work out what fittings I need and measure up lines

So keen to start the work.

After months of saving and stocking up parts it's time to get started

When I got to my mates places early yesterday morning and walked in to the garage to see this I was jumping around like a school girl. :D

1zFDF3Il.jpg

I was finally able to get my hands dirty with this car

We dropped the gearbox, removed the clutch and flywheel and removed the old sump.

Couldn't belive what we had to take off to get to 2 small screws at the rear of the sump.

Also noticed that my passanger side engine mount is completely screwed so both mounts will be changed, Nismo mounts of course :P

We hit a bit of a snag late yesterday afternoon. After removing the timing belt, harmonic balancer then the oil pump, we found that the new billet gears I've got are to big for this pump.

It looks like they are for an N1 oil pump. So my mate was going today to get it swapped for the correct gears as well as pick up the new engine mounts.

So that's it so far. I'm back at work for the next 3 nights so I won't be able to get stuck in to the work until saturday afternoon/night but with my mate being on holidays, he'll be able to pump out a fair bit until them.

  • Like 1

Got a problem with the intake manifold though. On the stock runners it sits to far to the left and the throttle body hits the fuse box.

Not sure if there is a difference between the 33 and 34 manifold but something does seem right with this.

I'm going to have to head to plazmaman on monday before work

post-87530-14324036645248_thumb.jpg

There is a different between 33 & 34 manifold - one of them is the the Idle Air valve. But if yours fit on the manifold then it means you've got the right one.

I was told you dont need to relocate anything to install these. Keen to see what the issue turns out to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...