Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So NSW Time Attack comes around. After the madness of getting the car ready and actually getting to the event.

DSC_0074.jpg

285/35's are very tall, so we had to massage the tubs a little. With the castor and under load there was some rubbing.

DSC_0135.jpg

  • Like 1

I've only been to Wakefield once and that was for the SAU Nats last year.

1.07 I think the time was.

So this time around I've got less weight, little more power and wider tyres.

1.04.9 on the coldest two days on earth, I though PI was cold in Winter, this place has nothing on PI.

It took a silly amount of time to get the tyres up to temp, we used so much fuel that after the second run on day two we had run out.

6x 20L cans and 60L in the tank, gone.

Most others were using Martini, which was no good and guys running Surogen were out and re-tuning for Martini.

1048718_678158665533640_292904634_o.jpg

  • Like 1

It's been decided that the splitter is not low enough to fully utilise the air and that the lower lip design wasn't the best aero wise.

So we knocked a template out of wood. We will be attaching the front in in a way that makes it easy to get on and off. Also need to look into the fasening system from the splitter, as that needs to be structural to the chassis not the front bar.

We also enlarged the intercooler opening, which isn't better for aero, but is for cooling.

IMG_20591.jpg

  • Like 1

The wing sits low on the standard GTR stands, so up it goes 30mm. These are made from 3mm alloy, one on each side of the wing stay.

Also notice the go fast tape around the boot from NSW Time Attack.

IMG_2069.jpg

Also trying out some F1 inspired wing end plates. The old man cut these out of 2mm alloy, with the angle grinder.

IMG_20661.jpg

  • Like 1

Some toys to fix the diff. A little gearbox maintenance with a new seat for the shifter and a new selector bush.

Also people go on and on about roll center and bump steer. While I understand the mechanical theory, in practice on the track...mmm not sure.

My front tie rods are not even near horizontal with the car is jacked up and suspension unloaded. They are still a good 10mm higher at the knuckle.

So I'm smashing out good times, with the front arms pointing skyward. I think the car handles extremely well. So I'm further interested to see if these KTS rod ends make any measurable difference to the way the car handles.

We changed the studs over to 70mm NISMO's a while back and now I've got some real wheel nuts. 2 piece project mu's.

IMG_20251.jpg

  • Like 1

Tyres, tyres. I know on the current set of wheels I can just squeeze a set of 285's on there. I'm sure 285/30 will fit no worries.

But....is there going to be a difference, even 0.1 seconds difference in going to a 295...

Now a 295 is going to bulgde the hell off a 10" wheel, so i'd need a 10.5. To do that the offset needs to be way out there.

10.5 + 15, GTR offset....on GTST guards...I think not.

So the question is, should I butcher the guards (which we are allowed to do this year) to fit the tyres.

This is a shot of the current set with a 30mm spacer (around the same offset as the 10.5). The wheel is loaded via a jack to running height.

IMG_2062.jpg

  • Like 1

I'm interested to see how you go with the tyre monitor, what is it? How much etc?

Brother bought it as a birthday present. Not sure.

It's going to save waiting time in the pits between warm up laps and hot laps.

As generally, it go out and blast a 80% lap, come back into the pits. Make sure the pressure are good, then go out and hit up a fast lap.

The car sits around heat soaking while the pressures are checked.

So as long as we calibrate the pressure readings from the senors with a good external gauge, it should be useful.

Do you struggle for rear grip at the moment or is purely chasing more corner speed? In which case I'd be thinking the fronts would be the main concern?

Ah OK, well let us know how you go with it, and what tyre pressures you run etc.

I'd also be keen to hear what alignment settings you're using, though you can PM that if you're happy to share but don't want to over-share as some people don't.

Edited by ActionDan

front castor -7 deg

front camber -3 deg

front tow +0.8mm (ea)

rear camber -1.7 deg

rear tow -0.5 (ea)

The camber settings change a little as we lift the front and rear regularly to find balance for the conditions. This also changes the tow slightly, though not much with the R33 arms.

I haven't got any adjustable arms on the rear, so the standard camber bolts are pushed all the way to max positive.

Wheel alignment settings go together with the spring choice, sway-bar setup, rake etc.

  • Like 1

It makes me happy to see a car which gets driven properly - I love the re-shells in the first few pages.

Good on you for driving your car and not sitting it in the garage worrying it will get hurt - like seems to happen a lot these days.

Great driving too, maybe i'll meet you at the track one day.

You should be commended for the time of 104.9 on a cold day as the lap record for the V8 Utes is a 108.00

Whitline make a replacement adjustable front sway bar link KLC108 that is stronger than the standard unit. Here is a link to their site. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC108

You will butcher your rear quarters trying to get the 295's to fit. You could roll and flare out your quarters a good bit more than what they are ATM, but chasing THAT much the quarter will sink further up and scrubbing out under full load will haunt you I reckon. I've pushed mine to the limit without major work, ie heating, pin pulling a totally re shaping. No way I'd get them under my quarters.

Super awesome job on the 1.04 mate. it was good to meetyou and see this car in the metal too :)

How much power is the car making now? Im lucky to hit 185km at the kink. but it may also be that you're carrying a bit more speed through the last corner and can get on it eairlier.

Are you going to make a fibreglass spiltter/airdam?

Have to get the diff back together and the front splitter sorted this weekend.

I want to get out testing AD08R as soon as possible. Yoki have an event on the 3rd of August, so that is the aim.

http://www.yokohama.com.au/en/ADVAN-Motorsport/ADVAN-Neova-Cup/ADVAN-Track-Days.aspx

My brother has also been designing a rear diffuser.

It's actually built now, but no pics of the actually until it's all done :closedeyes:

r29u9f.png

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...