Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ho

thinking of changing my innvoate wideband over to something else... getting some weird readings from it and they appear to be fairly hit and miss units at the best of time anyway (lots of calibration required)

interested in who's running what.... zeitronix, aem have some decent rep from my google trawling (but mostly U.S. forums) - aem getting a lot of love.

don't need guages etc... just the sensor to provide a reading to the ECU, that's it.

thoughts, keen i am

chinny

Just installed a Tech Edge 2COB, if I had to buy again I would pony up for 3A model with the added functionality of thermocouple inputs and the integrated USB port.

Tech Edge all the way, quality products, service and support, aussie too.

Zeitronix:

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.shtml

around $280 USD - no disply, that's fine. Some specs

  • 0.1 AFR accuracy
  • Operating voltage 10V to 18V
  • Switching power supply for oxygen sensor heater
  • Precise sensor temperature control
  • Reverse polarity protection
  • Integrated self-resetting fuse
  • Positive lock connectors
  • Protected inputs and outputs
  • Flexible Plug and Play Sensor Harness with a small, easy to route through the fire wall, connector
  • Wideband Oxygen Sensor included
  • Easy to install plug and play kit
  • Adjustable Narrowband Switching Point
  • Warning Alarms and Triggers
  • Bosch Wideband O2 sensor Input
  • Linear Wideband Output AFR = Volts * 2 + 9.6
  • Serial data output to the Zeitronix LCD, ZR-1 AFR, and ZR-2 Multi-Gauge Displays
  • Serial data output for real time datalogging (PC laptop required)
  • RPM Input (tachometer, primary side ignition coil, crank, cam sensor).
    The RPM input works in any car and any ignition system. No additional adapters needed!S-01.gif
  • Simulated and adjustable Narrowband Output to feed a stock ECU
  • Throttle Position Sensor Input
  • Boost (MAP) Sensor Input:
    - 50 PSI (3.5 Bar) MAP Sensor, or 75 PSI (5.0 Bar) MAP sensor or
    150 PSI (10 Bar) MAP sensor
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) probe Input
  • User1 Input:
    - 0-5 volt analog input. Voltage data is viewable on all models of the LCD display.
    Software support for the display of Zeitronix pressure sensors.
    - Customized data conversions can be entered to match 0-5 volt sensor specifications.
    All converted User1 data values are displayed only in the software.
  • User2 Input:
    - 0-5 volt analog input OR configurable to be used with Fuel/Oil/Boost pressure sensors and Air/Water/Oil/Transmission temperature sensors.
    - Data is displayed on the 2010 Model LCD and ZR-2 Multi-gauge as a pressure or temperature.
    - Zeitronix Data Logger software will display and log data according to sensor type.
    - Customized data conversions can be entered to match 0-5 volt sensor specifications.
    Customized data conversion values are displayed in the Zeitronix Data Logger software only.
  • Warning Output for use with ZAVT-1 warning/trigger box
  • 5V output for sensors

Is that overkill in terms of that inputs and TPS/MAP sensor inputs? I don't need that info going to the wideband yeah?

3A Techedge is fairly pricey.... i take it there is more to just feeding an AFR reading to the ECU?

http://wbo2.com/home/products.htm

I've been running a aem wideband with a Aem series 2 ecu. Work great with no issues at all. Not sure how it would interact with a different brand ecu, however I can't see why It would pose a problem as its a stand alone unit. Hoewever i sold It with the ecu and im now changing to haltech

i have a Link G4 plugin, and i believe we put it in there as a back-up to the ethanol sensor, so if it packs it in, and there's a weird mix in there, the wideband can jump in and changing timing etc.

i think Trent had it set to trim to target AFR on cruise as well? not sure if that's on at the moment.

So given that, i don't need anything serious yeah? Do i need a controller at all? or do i just need a sensor that feeds a signal to the ECU as that will control everything? Or do you always need that controller as an intermediary?

I use just the PLX devices wideband module linked to a power fc data logit in my gtr. Ive also got 2 x EGT probes with sensor modules. Both modules output 0-5 v and the FC datalogit does the calibration/conversion to real values for me. The wideband has a simulated narrow band out, so the rear sensor can be replaced with the wideband, and close loop with 2 narrow bands will still work.

Just installed a Tech Edge 2COB, if I had to buy again I would pony up for 3A model with the added functionality of thermocouple inputs and the integrated USB port.

Tech Edge all the way, quality products, service and support, aussie too.

^^^^^^

I used them when i was in australia, and i buy them from here also.

there is no need to buy anything else then a tech edge.

http://wbo2.com/2j/2j9.htm

$254 with no display. you can buy a dial gauge or a square one if needed. all the displays are backwards and forward compatible.

You are not obliged to buy the sensor from tech edge also, when i need a sensor i go to the VW spare parts shop and get one from a VW Jedda!

I think the late model commodore sensors fit also, there is lots of info on the web site on which sensor you can / cannot use.

the guy has been making them from his home in Canberra for as long as i can remember and he will reply to a support email usually the same day and is available on the phone if you want to bug him.

go tech edge, its the only option for a wide band these days IMO.

I'm using an AEM UEGO as well. Thing is, I'm not totally confident it is 100% accurate. I have a feeling it might read a bit rich, otherwise my tune is extremely rich. Frequently seeing ~12.5 on cruise. But I need to ask my tuner to check how accurate it is next time it goes on the dyno.

That said, I'm otherwise happy with the AEM. I've just finished wiring it into my G4 expansion harness which was very straight forward. The Zeitronix kit looks the goods as well though!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...