Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

I have been using the AEM wideband for 6 years now, couldn´t be happier with it. Works great, no calibration needed and all the electronics fit in the 2" gauge :)

$T2eC16Z,!ykE9s7t)2UyBR-QHE0IEw~~60_12.J

I'm running the same unit in my car, and it follows exactly with the Dyno operators setup, gives the same readings, Not sure what he has though.

I personally run a NTK AFX which I bought on recommendation from reading through American forums with input from reputable big name workshops with tons of big hp cars. I was gonna buy something different for the other car but I think I'll just buy another NTK.

  • 2 years later...

I'm going to get a 20L drum, cut the top off, and then collect all the f**ked innovate LM2 hand controllers I have encountered (Including 2 of mine) pour fuel in, BURN ALL OF THE dream boats, and then with the molten plastic and slag, get f**k YOU TO HELL INNOVATE engraved on it, and post it to them.

Innovate can eat the biggest, fattest and longest of dicks.

The units last about 1-2 years. Then they go to shit. They f**k up in a shit way - the AFR reading rubber bands between 10 and 40 AFR and is absolutely f**ked. Powersupply on the car a little shit? No problems, just be an asshole and don't work at all innovate.

The analogue outputs don't even f**king work properly. they have 2 analogue outputs - one works, 0-5v the other doesn't work at all even though they boast the unit has two. False advertising.

Their customer service is ZERO

Their response to emails - ZERO
The quality of their units - ZERO
The parts availability - ZERO

f**k them.

I'm going to buy a techedge unit and never trust innovate again.

For all my CAN BUS needs on the Link G4+, I have been using hte Ecotrons ALM-CAN and ALM-CAN II. I worked with link to get templates made up so you can just load the file and it connects. I have permanently mounted one in my car over a year ago and still going good. I have installed about 5 other units, and 2 dual units without an issue. CAN is just so f**king easy. They are all 4.9 LSU too, and now with the ADV sensor.

Edited by The Mafia

My previous M800 had a controller built in for my 4.9.

Unfortunately the G4+ plug in has none so fitted a KMS eugo CAN a little xii but wtf http://kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/accessories-2/uego-can-controller/

How much was it? Always looking for good prices. And link having support for it is a bonus.

I paid 345 euro 1 1/2 years ago from this outfit. http://www.akracing-shop.de/KMS-Einspritzanlagen/KMS-CAN-Breitbandlambda-Set.html If you hunt around you may find it cheaper.

I looked at the Chinese Ecotrons one first but have been burnt before buying from there so went with this one and no complaints.

Went CAN to avoid voltage signal offsets etc.

I've been having luck with Ecotrons.

I'm with you too - I like CAN because the voltage offsets, bad earths etc give me the shits when they don't work properly.

For sure! nice to know what you are seeing is correct.

can recommend the 14 point 7.com spartan controllers using the LSU4.9 sensor. they're 75 USD for the controller.

basic, but have a 0-5v output and are cheap with automotive grade gear. haven't had an issue with mine. haven't used the sigma 2.1 controller but has a display and multiple inputs if you're into that kinda thing.

http://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2

Edited by burn4005

DO NOT USE THE INNOVATE MTX-L.

They cook sensors, then after they cook sensors the gauge will cook itself LOL

Also there are two versions of the LM2, the older is a piece of shit because it uses the old LSU 4.2 sensor not the newer LSU 4.9 found in the latest version.

I have the old croc of shit version which somehow just shows W27 most days and some days work lol.

The main reason I use Innovate is because of their serial out, which directly integrates with Adaptronic also they're the only ones on the market with a handheld wideband which I use to tune other people's cars (not so much these days, as I just tell people to install widebands before seeing me).

However, I am game enough to try the new LM2 that uses the LSU4.9 sensor.. hopefully no more wacky readings and W27 errors (also wtf is W27? it's not even in the manual)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...