Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just spent all weekend trying to get my 02 sensor off with no luck...

I've used the special socket and it's on that tight that it's just stripping back the thread.. Tried WD40 to loosen it and even with a breaker bar and a 22mm socket it still won't budge!

What are my options? :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Replaced my O2 sensor with a nissan universal one from repco, worked ok for 1000km but then started bugging up. Was slightly hesitating at cruising speed then fuel economy went bad and finally engine light came on at cruising speed. My tuner said unplug the sensor and see if the problem is still there, so I did and that fixed it.

So now I'm going to have to replace it again. And this time it's going to be geniuine.

universal = :happy:

'93 HCR32 GTST OZA395-E2 $76.50ish from Bursons trade price, plug fits.

Just confirming for everyone, as this thread lacks R32 info. If a mod could add it to the first post in this thread it would be good.

I just had a look at mine this arvo quickly, been told the front one is playing up, but what did the stock RB26DETT come out with for R33? mine has o2 sensor at the rear with 3 wires, front one has only 2 wires coming from it?

which one has been changed previously? im guessing the one with 3 wires (i.e rear) has been replaced at some stage.

Now if going to buy one, are the front and rear ones the same on R33 gtr? or different part numbers?

on the R33 GTR, your o2 sensors should have 3 wires.

The one with 2 wires has been changed obviously to another type of sensor.

Front and rear are the same but with different connectors thus the different part numbers.

This link should help you : http://wardiz.over-blog.com/article-34295259.html

I just had a look at mine this arvo quickly, been told the front one is playing up, but what did the stock RB26DETT come out with for R33? mine has o2 sensor at the rear with 3 wires, front one has only 2 wires coming from it?

which one has been changed previously? im guessing the one with 3 wires (i.e rear) has been replaced at some stage.

Now if going to buy one, are the front and rear ones the same on R33 gtr? or different part numbers?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I replaced mine recently with a universal one from EL Falcon. Originally tried to solder wires but it's f**king impossible! It comes with a joiner though so i used that instead.

It's working pretty well, fuel economy is better (not sure by how much yet) but yeah see how long it lasts.

PS. Use anti-sieze on all exhaust bolts makes your like much easier getting them off later, thankfully whoever worked on my car did use it and it was piece of cake to get the old one out.

on the R33 GTR, your o2 sensors should have 3 wires.

The one with 2 wires has been changed obviously to another type of sensor.

Front and rear are the same but with different connectors thus the different part numbers.

This link should help you : http://wardiz.over-blog.com/article-34295259.html

This is a good article on changing the O2 sensor on an R33 / R34 GTR. I've added it as a link to my GTaaargh O2 sensor page

If you find any part numbers that fit skylines or other useful links, let me know using the link at the bottom of my web page and I'll update the table. It saves trawling through 19 pages.

James

Here you have it NTK genuine nissan part $77 :)

* Nissan Skyline, R32 GTS-t

* Nissan Skyline, R32 GTS-4

* Nissan Skyline, R33 GTS25-t

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ng...25det-p-42.html

Edited by v8tzr

So the r32 rb20det and rb25det, came with two o2 sensors? one near the dump pipe? and one further down the exhaust, to quote the shop that tuned my car, they think my 02 sensor is lazy, so I suppose it's on the way out.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

I have apexi turbo timer with O2 sensor voltage reading feature. How do i know from voltage reading when my sensor are bad?

When i put the ign into ACC (engine isn't started yet), the display reads 0.2 V from O2 sensor. Is it normal? I have 3 inch cat exhaust on my RB20DET, I thought when engine is off, outside air would came inside and make the sensor reads rich near 1 V (a lot of oxygen). Any thoughts?

Thanks

  • 1 month later...

Damn, this is a sticky? Was looking for a replacement O2 sensor for a RB25DE..got to page 12! total confusion.

Guys the O2 sensor only controls EFI in closed loop mode..cruise or light throttle, anything else is determined by your map values and if it's OEM then rich is the key word..to save warranty claims, aftermarket..you need a tune. Sooo your not going to see huge increases in economy, unless you do a lot of highway driving. This means turbo or non-turbo doesn't make a difference as far as the O2 sensor is concerned.

Also like MAP sensors or ECU temp sensors, they are specific to each manufacturers specs, even though they operate in the same range ie. 0-1v NB O2 sensors..0-5v MAP sensors..you need a replacement that duplicates the same specs...

BTW the lower sensor doesn't have anything to do with EFI, it monitors CAT integrity in a narrow band above 1200degF.

Thanks Kudos..going to place an order.

Edited by FTO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...