Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Close! it's 6,000 because you can't rev an rb30 beyond that no matter you do with them

all things being equal, you can always rev a motor with a shorter stroke more no matter how you build them.

That rb 30 z is a drag car, would be totally useless around a track and irrelevant to the ops aim. To get any torque or power out of that thing it would have to be revving at 5000rpm and have nos to get it on boost just to get it off the line.

all things being equal, you can always rev a motor with a shorter stroke more no matter how you build them.

That's fine, but for the average joe blow on a "normal budget", why would you want to rev the thing past 8000 RPM.

That's fine, but for the average joe blow on a "normal budget", why would you want to rev the thing past 8000 RPM.

You dont need to.who said you did. but it would get there at the same time a 30 will get to 6500. 26s spin up a lot faster because of the shorter stroke thats my point

So if you have a rolling run from say 4500 RPM in 4th, both engines make the same peak power but the RB30 has more torque through the mid range will still accelerate the car slower than the "rev happy" RB 26?

So if you have a rolling run from say 4500 RPM in 4th, both engines make the same peak power but the RB30 has more torque through the mid range will still accelerate the car slower than the "rev happy" RB 26?

4500rpm in 4th is same speed as you would be changing from 2nd to 3rd in a RB26 :pirate:

You dont need to.who said you did. but it would get there at the same time a 30 will get to 6500. 26s spin up a lot faster because of the shorter stroke thats my point

In neutral maybe.

Not when a torquier engine is pushing 1500kgs.

So if you have a rolling run from say 4500 RPM in 4th, both engines make the same peak power but the RB30 has more torque through the mid range will still accelerate the car slower than the "rev happy" RB 26?

Rb30 would kill it of course with the extra torque, but put both in there sweet spot the 26 cover a greater rev range in the same time if you had identical power and torque figures, which of course you dont. be interested to see this on a graph though.

If you think torque isn't important go back to the graphs and look at the torque readings when a turbo engine comes on boost . Homologation specials like GTRs are not IMO a great example of what production turbo engines/cars are like - because its reason for being was a narrow focus special . Typical production road cars make more torque (same engine/capacity) in turbo form than the NA versions do and surprisingly , for some , at lower revs than the NA ones often do .

Gootta run trains to move , cheers A .

  • Like 1

And who is saying torque is not important.....geez

I am going to take my 70 kw alfa33 out for a trashing now just to prove to myself that...don't know but I am taking it out anyway....I know carbies are better than FI. Hopefully I can find a vl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...