Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ingenuous move, working out how to make some bulletproof idea used by another manufacturer work in this engine range. It's about time there was a workable solution to changing oil pressure relief springs was figured out too, without needing to drop the sump.

Not everyone needs an expensive dry sump setup, and the difficulties that go with packaging it into the car.

Hopefully it's a good solution in practice, and he's able to get the stuff priced so it's affordable

And whats wrong with the tomei pumps to need this?

They are as good as it gets IMHO without going through all this fuss.

Im not putting up my hand to the person to test one....will watch this with interest though.

We may just have a better option the Tomei pump ;)

It will be interesting to see how long they last. The drive idea seems decent as i was led to believe its normally the pump drive gear chattering around on the crank that causes it to crack and fail. This splined drive would surely allow the pump drive gear to be stronger and at worst last longer than the current options

I bet they wont be cheap though

i am getting a couple of these bad boys to see how they sell in Australia.

if anyone is interested send me a PM.

here is more pictures of progress. they will be ready very soon.

It actually uses the OEM toyota gears. its going to be the strongest RB pump available.

post-1240-0-35520400-1387284369_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-66978300-1387284372_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-97018800-1387284376_thumb.jpg

so the Toyota gear is interference fit but no grub screws like the crank collars?

Looks pretty good, I'm not real sure what the hold up with the Nitto version is? there was alot of talk about it a while ago. Didn't think it was that hard to make a gear instead of a crank collar and adapt the oil pump gears to suit? But perhaps it had to be tested fully before putting into production

Hi guys. Yes we have been working on this for quite some time now with very different real world results to the simplistic nature one would think of a project like this. Difference here is that we are actually doing the field testing (which is not easy on proper big HP RB engines with 2-step etc) and not releasing our product into the market without this.

The fine spline drive has shown many issues on an RB engine in areas that would normally not be thought of and has also really accentuated the differences between RB and 2JZ crankshaft properties and design.

First of all a significant issue stems from the process of an engine block being tunnel bored to correct the alignment of the main journal tunnel which can lead to the crankshaft sitting several thou higher than its original position in the engine block (which believe it or not can also vary block to block from the factory). The oil pump stays in the same position when bolted to the block and leads to the upper section of the spline being driven harder and loads the gear set in an ununiformed manner. There is not an acceptable clearance for an involute spline that will properly allow for this and also combine it with the further issues below. Obviously this is detrimental to the durability of an oil pump.

Second to this is the harsher harmonics that are found in an RB crankshaft as compared to a 2JZ item stemming a lot from the smaller journal overlap and also on a factory RB crankshaft from the 8 counter weight design. This is also further pronounced on a stroker crankshaft and when combined with the much smaller and weaker snout of an RB crankshaft this can lead to further clearance issues and gear loading.

I can't comment on how all this would come into play with the cheap sintered steel factory 2JZ gears but I can say that all this did not end overly well with our expensive nitride and treated EN Series billet steel gears in both operation & wear patterns and housing galling conditions. This is all just some information for you guys in regards to where we are at with this upgrade that we have been working hard on for so long now and is no disrespect to the gentleman designing the new pump listed.

We have a new design that is currently undergoing testing that will ensure a much higher level of drive durability without worry from the above conditions but, as always with our products, won't be released until Nitto is confident that it replicates what will suit all potential variations of RB engine builds without fault. Our track record with the current design pump is still excellent but upgrades are always good! Hopeful release date will be within the first quarter of next year but this, as always, will be subject to testing results.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...