Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was 22? Or maybe just 23 when I signed the r up no issues.

Maybe driving records come into it, maybe where you live, maybe the bloke was having a good day ?

Hard to say, my guess is, they have tightened up their requirements since your time?

Maybe letting you slip through was the last straw :nyaanyaa:

  • Like 1

I still have never been booked for anything... mainly due to living in a smallish town. ( closest police station is over 20 km away.. )

It looks like they have tightened the requirements up heaps in the last year. Possibly the under 25 only applies now?

I think the person I got was a tad cranky at the time.

I still have never been booked for anything... mainly due to living in a smallish town. ( closest police station is over 20 km away.. )

It looks like they have tightened the requirements up heaps in the last year. Possibly the under 25 only applies now?

I think the person I got was a tad cranky at the time.

I just called them for you, there is no age limit on the owner, 18 and over, must have a garage and all of the other stipulations they want you to abide by. If you track your car , there is no coverage if you prang at the track. Driving to and from, no problem.

I would think there would be a negative response if you have a bad record, you say you are OK so no probs , I would try again and if you get the bloke I just spoke to , you will be OK, he was very helpful

Hope this helps . :action-smiley-069:

  • Like 1

punishment for buying a Cube?

The only punishment for buying a cube is having to have the windscreen wipers on constantly to remove all the panties getting thrown at it.

  • Like 6

So are mods an issue with there policy?

Not from what the bloke said, I also mentioned that there are not many of these Skylines without mods and he understood that. I would think if you prang your car and you were charged with reckless driving or similar, your policy is Null/ dumped in the bin.

When I did my other mods last year, I phoned and told a bloke and when I got my new policy it did not mention them , I guess you have a policy of $65k and you write it off , it is still only going to cost them , $65k regardless of extra mods you put on since the policy was taken out, unless you want to have the agreed value increased ???

I guess at the end of the day, if you drive within the rules of the road there should be no problem, this is regardless of the power your car has. You can walk into a showroom and drive out with some pretty fast cars and with insurance and most of them have turbos or big V8s, all of which you can drive like a DH or not !.

  • Like 1

Eh, im glad.

Premiums went from $2100 a year to $450.

Agreed value almost doubled.

What do they agree is the current replacement value of a very clean r32 GTR, for the premium of $450 Edited by mr skidz

What do they agree is the current replacement value of a very clean r32 GTR, for the premium of $450

I had a quote back in November for $480 premium with a $30k agreed value, $750 excess (plus the age excess on top since I'm 24, I think it's $300). Ended up bumping the agreed value up to $35k for an extra $50. So interpolating that, you'd think about the $26-27k mark maybe.

Has anyone tried to raise their agreed value on renewal? I lowballed myself when i first signed up to ensured i would get covered, and now attempting to increased the value and keep getting denied by the lady on the phone.

Any tips?

Has anyone tried to raise their agreed value on renewal? I lowballed myself when i first signed up to ensured i would get covered, and now attempting to increased the value and keep getting denied by the lady on the phone.

Any tips?

Interesting. What is it valued at now and what are you trying to raise it to?

I'm going to raise the value of my 32R soon too. (currently at 30-35k - will need to double check my paperwork)

I am still trying to work out if they actually care to much about the mods in a $ term.

Insurance is like gambling and they have the table and the house wins or no company left. Maybe they have their own pricing structure for each car, model, year and have limit for them ???

Well i spoke too soon. I had a bit of luck. I managed to speak to a different lady this time. I got the agreed value raised from 50k to 67k for an extra $100 on my premium. My premium last year was $707, with the higher agreed value it is now $814

I am happy with the outcome

  • Like 3

I am still trying to work out if they actually care to much about the mods in a $ term.

Insurance is like gambling and they have the table and the house wins or no company left. Maybe they have their own pricing structure for each car, model, year and have limit for them ???

I believe they do. Some of my agreed value increase was from the actually cost of the new wheels and tyres i put on the car.

I believe they do. Some of my agreed value increase was from the actually cost of the new wheels and tyres i put on the car.

They always seem to mention wheels in the mods, but I told them about motor, turbo, fuel upgrades etc and nothing on the policy?????

BUT I was not increasing the agreed value, this may have been the difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...