Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From my much more modest experience with a basic RB30 I would say there is no way the 3.2 could not be a great daily driver even with 400 or 500awkw if tuned appropriately. I agree 1000 injectors would give you a little margin ... those 700s could well get maxed out on E85

  • Like 1

I'd say you'll be needing bigger injectors than those peanut 700's, Pete. Especially if you're going to flex tune it.

I have just emailed the shop and asked what injectors are in the car, maybe a higher rating or he is changing them , I will try and find out tomorrow.

I doubt they would stuff it up over changing the injectors if they need changing, but ????

Yes definitely upgrade injectors I ran out of fuel at 470rwkws on ID1000s on E85. They are cheap and will save you a re-tune

I cannot imagine them not upgrading these if they need it, as I said , I do not know what was put in there when they did the original build, the bloke spent over $50k including Z-tune body set, but I think Advan used a copy bonnet but I could not get them to verify the parts bought from them, including the Nismo 2-way LSD??

So I am in the dark on a few things but trying to sort it out :/

Power will depend on boost level really, but a responsive 400awkws sounds about right to me :yes:

700s will be ok for 400 on 98, not so good on E85 :(

Not sure what injectors are in the car, they could be 1000cc , waiting on an answer from CRD. They are installing the flex fuel system so they now the injectors will have to handle the E85, so ?

When I spoke to Jim about building the 3.2 he said that a torquey 400awkw on pump would be a nice street car and would give me what I want.

He said if I ever wanted to turn up the wick, big HPs can be obtained, but like everything, more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$s have to pass hands, yes , from mine to ?

I was going to buy a GTR, but did not like them, I wanted a car that made me feel like I was driving it , 8 years in an auto was enough , but a TT 350GT auto can be a lot of fun.

What I will get from this build should be more than what I need, but I will enjoy what I use :)

Just had a look on your pictures. You have blue caps. I BELIEVE. Those light blue ones are Sard 700's.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447134-sard-700cc-injectors-x6/

Same colour as in this for sale thread.

I know what you mean Luke, glad I am not young anymore (joke) maybe we can bolt in a jet motor soon, haha

On the sad side, no pics :yucky:

Has the build come to an end :woot:

Fn hope not :unsure:

Just had a look on your pictures. You have blue caps. I BELIEVE. Those light blue ones are Sard 700's.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447134-sard-700cc-injectors-x6/

Same colour as in this for sale thread.

Just have a feeling they were 700s

I will try to get an answer and that is like pulling fn teeth

Yes , yes, you blokes were right .

It is like they hold your car hostage , photos are like getting a Video of your love one proving they are still alive but you have to pay and take a chance to get them back in good condition :(

I am sure this post will not help my situation but I am at a point were I do not give a fark!

The Mushroom :rant:

So long as they're not sending you single nuts by mail, you'll be ok.

They send nothing, a nut would be good, so looks like it could get nasty , hope not, but shit happens :)

The trouble is they read all of this shit and I get the blame for what other blokes have said, the worst thing is, you blokes were right :/

So here we are, drive line was going in and communication has stopped, farking cars :verymad:

I think I will trade the Tiida in so I can get another fun car, 4 door something and I do not give a shit how long it takes :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...