Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get in the Tiida and just rock up.

Take the keys off Jimbo and rip a launch up the street.

Wish it was that easy, after I get the OK I have to get the girls looked after and book a flight to Sydney

You are one sick puppy Paul :spank: nice butt :3some:

I don't think so, said it was the first run ??

It is just about impossible to speak to anyone that knows what is going on and only get info second hand ?

Sure will be glad when it is over :)

I am sure they feel the same way :)

I am not the best at reading graphs but next week I will know how it feels when I have my fat arse on the seat and a 350 Klm drive home, going to use the old Highway to give it some work away from the Freeway :)

I hope there is a heap better graph once the final tune is done :/

Hi Mick-o , I asked that question before and I think they said they cannot do it with their Dyno program, I would think you could make the program do what you want it to ??

Needs more boost!!

Good to see it going ( I too cannot understand why some people show mph instead of rpm).

My guess is the final figure will be between 400 and 500 awkw - anywhere in that range should do!

  • Like 1

Needs more boost!!

Good to see it going ( I too cannot understand why some people show mph instead of rpm).

My guess is the final figure will be between 400 and 500 awkw - anywhere in that range should do!

Hi Bob, just want it finished and hopefully give me the responsive results I have worked to get, well paid to get :)

Looking at 400awkw ish on 98 pump. maybe 450 with E85.

Does not matter at this stage, I just want my car back :)

I'd say 5 months is probably ahead of time on a build like this by a professional workshop....

There will be a month or more of a bit of back and forth once delivered to sort any small issues, run in and re-tune etc.

... it's better not to hope for a number on a page, regardless of what the car makes on that dyno on that day on that fuel your allways just a little dissaponted.

... these days I just rock up and go 'it make what it makes'

Cheers

J.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...