Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Some know some dont but I'll try keep this updated as this is where it started

Last bit of aero added rear diffuser and side duel element canards

We added a header tank now just to run some water lines and give it a tickle.

Hopefully by end of March im in the seat and we can start working and the organic spacer

All fancy parts etc aside. I'll drive whatever ive got as hard as I can but I hope we just have a balanced car that only needs tweeks here and there...  which never happens 😆 

Side note: that poor gtr front bar has been chopped, added to, changed and riveted to an inch of its life lol  and was considering putting a rear bar back on now I have a diffuser just for looks but thats not just a straight fit on which the extra wide body and the rear qtr being cut so high and also the amount of this I have to get to under the back now is redic so it all might just stay like this for ease 😕

20240217_105918.thumb.jpg.6e8dfa771e44d9c8cea36703b2067897.jpg20240217_121728.thumb.jpg.e745dc11a818245dcd166bbc65cc2548.jpgIMG_1201(1).thumb.jpg.f2b5dd61bc3300ae9b003a598c9cd39e.jpg

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 8

Jesus, that's a big diffuser. Planning to come East for some events at SMSP before WTAC 24?

Out of interest, do you rate the Motorsport ABS? While I'm needlessly upgrading mine I have been considering it but $12k is a lot of cash.

diffuser is bigger than I thought but its the same as everyone else as universal so maybe the lack of bumper or camera angle... or its just big

100% can see the value a flat floor would bring though to join it all together

Yes planning to be over east previous to WTAC and not just at SMSP - just need to organise storage of all my stuff + car etc as Im not going to drive over and back multiple times its not horrible but its really not the most  fun and I just dont have the time either

ABS - big $ yeah + install etc etc. the spend of cash still comes down to the individual ... I did fine without it but 100% I am braking better with it and have picked up time - that just comes  from me as an amateur being able to push it harder without the threat of locking a tyre and 1) screwing a tyre and 2) going shooting off into the sand which adds confidence

In essence you can use your brakes to their limit - pretty much every time

In addition - I dont know your rules and regs but the wheel sensors im now using for traction control and the torque control mapping model for the Motec

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

I can't wait to learn how it performs. It looks awesome. 

I shared this on insta but couldn't fit it all in!! :rofl2:

 

 

  • Haha 2
1 hour ago, PranK said:

I can't wait to learn how it performs. It looks awesome. 

I shared this on insta but couldn't fit it all in!! :rofl2:

 

 

fingers crossed good !

 

yes its an issue haha

 

didnt even know about insta sau must increase my non existent e - game !

  • Haha 2
  • 2 weeks later...

My Bosch ABS arrived yesterday, I'll be interested to hear how you rate it now that you've got enough brakes to slow the rotation of the earth. I reckon the ABS will be working pretty hard to keep up with this mental setup you've put on.

My mate runs 380mm V8SC brakes on his IPRA car, it's mental and you've gone even bigger😂

59 minutes ago, Komdotkom said:

My Bosch ABS arrived yesterday, I'll be interested to hear how you rate it now that you've got enough brakes to slow the rotation of the earth. I reckon the ABS will be working pretty hard to keep up with this mental setup you've put on.

My mate runs 380mm V8SC brakes on his IPRA car, it's mental and you've gone even bigger😂

nice - pain in the butt to get that in and setup/ installed but good when done - you running sensors off hubs not shafts yeah ?

it will be interesting thats for sure might take a bit of getting used to def think lucky have setup data to adjust ABS etc to optimise asap and just tweek from there I gather

53 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

Tyre adhesion will be the challenge. 

 

It will be - not going to be running the max high coeffcient sprint pad just a normal race pad as got told "it'll rip ya face off" otherwise 😅

52 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Damn, that's a lot of brake.

How long til back on track again? 

Tis alot - hopefully now never go wanting 

i'll say 3 - 4 weeks tops for for testing again .. car is very close and im on holidays for a bit and waiting for e85 delivery (welcome to being in w.a haha)

Edited by bcozican
1 hour ago, No Crust Racing said:

Tyre adhesion will be the challenge. 

Yep....it is worth remembering anything except the shittest brake setups are limited by tyre grip for a single stop, not brake ability.

Bigger brakes only make a difference for repeated stops as smaller brakes would get hot and fade

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...