Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 bucks says plugs are dripping.

Got them out, BLACK as, like black velvet , all of them :(

I guess you owe $5

Frankly it's not a big commendation of the quality of the tune.

I don't know much about tuning but i own and driven a car that i know for sure ran rich for a while and it certainly turnt into a slapper, not saying yours will, but it must create more wear so wondering if this is a running in strategy?? could it be or not..

umm no. running a motor rich while it is new is very bad for it, fuel in the bores causes glazing, preventing the rings from bedding in properly.

in bad cases it can need a strip down and re-hone to fix it.

umm no. running a motor rich while it is new is very bad for it, fuel in the bores causes glazing, preventing the rings from bedding in properly.in bad cases it can need a strip down and re-hone to fix it.

This, excessive rich is bad, just not as bad as really lean

umm no. running a motor rich while it is new is very bad for it, fuel in the bores causes glazing, preventing the rings from bedding in properly.

in bad cases it can need a strip down and re-hone to fix it.

What the hell would you know about engines....lol

(sorry uncle Dunc)

umm no. running a motor rich while it is new is very bad for it, fuel in the bores causes glazing, preventing the rings from bedding in properly.

in bad cases it can need a strip down and re-hone to fix it.

thats all I need :/

new plugs in and will not be driving it until they have a look at what is going on using the info I give them and connecting to the ECU and adjusting the tune.

yeah sorry, not trying to alarm just inform.

also the other issue for excessively rich tune on a new motor is fuel gets past the unbedded rings and into the oil...and petrol is terrible for bearings.

I had a chat to croydon about this build.

I want the same motor!

I think the motor is fine and once sorted it will be a very good all round DD , just frustrating :(

Why would you want the same motor

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

Can't afford it if you live on the central coast and need to take it there three times, petrol and accomodation is expensive. :rolleyes:

How rich does it need to be to foul plugs, and how rich to cause running in problems? Big or small difference? Hopefully rich enough to foul plugs doesn't mean rich enough to cause problems running in.

Edited by Scooby

Can't afford it if you live on the central coast and need to take it there three times, petrol and accomodation is expensive. :rolleyes:

How rich does it need to be to foul plugs, and how rich to cause running in problems? Big or small difference? Hopefully rich enough to foul plugs doesn't mean rich enough to cause problems running in.

Accommodation or transportation are equally expensive and a pain in the arse, but that is my problem.

I would also like to know "how rich" is too rich and how long before it can cause damage? I see it can even contaminate your oil if it is bad enough and that cant be good!

It seems too lean or too rich causes problems, but rich seems to be preferred to lean

just about back to the original thread topic, my fuel is too rich and then once it is leaned out a bit, will it give a better power result..

I know now that after a short time with new plugs you can feel the car getting more sluggish and it is not long before it wont rev much past 6000rpm without playing up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...