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Yes, said it was slight detonation, not sure if any detonation is good for the motor.

Lines are done on the surge tank. tested OK for leaks , so things are moving along, pics a bit dark :(

post-52098-0-83255800-1437610262_thumb.jpg

I thought any detonation was bad detonation.

From what I know about it , "no detonation" is what you want.

As detonation gets worse can it lead to pre ignition in a car engine or are they totally separate problems. From I have read so far slight detonation can go on for a long time in your family car and you would not really know it is happening but still causing internal problems, not sure about turbo charged engines?

But pre ignition can destroy your motor/pistons in a flash.

Well as I understand it, it can lead to pre ignition and once that happens normally you will throw a rod/piston and cry alot.

I wouldn't want to run 380kw with any sort of knock/det/ping and this should have been sorted when first detected.

Someone on here that is more clued up than me might have another idea.

But brand new engine/tune/everything should be perfectly tune to the smallest part. Glad you are getting it sorted though. Good work.

Well as I understand it, it can lead to pre ignition and once that happens normally you will throw a rod/piston and cry alot.

I wouldn't want to run 380kw with any sort of knock/det/ping and this should have been sorted when first detected.

Someone on here that is more clued up than me might have another idea.

But brand new engine/tune/everything should be perfectly tune to the smallest part. Glad you are getting it sorted though. Good work.

Crying just thinking about it,lol

It was a good thing I did not like the performance and thought there was something wrong with the way it felt to drive with the power it had. But until I had a second opinion from Mick I was only guessing :/

I am not sure if it will be much better when I get it back, I hope so :cool:

Would need a 6266 at a minimum. No bigger split turbine housings available

Yeah that .84 was the biggest for the 6262 I think and it is split. If I have to go to a different turbo to have it working better then I will.

You mentioned some time back about the BW 8374 with the 1.01 housing, spools quickly and has 50HP extra, that could be an option ?

If you stick to precision and just go up a size it will bolt straight back on and mean a lot less in labour charges

I hope I do not have to change it and I know you are are right but I am a stubborn SOB and still chasing the Holy Response and worried if I get bigger turbo I will be going backwards , lol

Didn't even watch my video.

ok so let me see if I've got this right, he has put;

90s tech -5s with the smaller -7 .42 comp housings with factory pipe work designed to fit the engine bay nice and neat up against the latest tech GTX3582R with custom pipe work designed to make the turbo work to it's peak efficiency and this is what is considered a fair test of twins v single, really!!!

And lets not forget the tuner, a massively biased single turbo supporter romoured for fudging dyno readings

Is that about right, don't get me wrong, I am not saying one is better then the other, I'm saying this test is anything but a fair test of twins v singles

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ok so let me see if I've got this right, he has put;

90s tech -5s with the smaller -7 .42 comp housings with factory pipe work designed to fit the engine bay nice and neat up against the latest tech GTX3582R with custom pipe work designed to make the turbo work to it's peak efficiency and this is what is considered a fair test of twins v single, really!!!

And lets not forget the tuner, a massively biased single turbo supporter romoured for fudging dyno readings

Is that about right, don't get me wrong, I am not saying one is better then the other, I'm saying this test is anything but a fair test of twins v singles

My figures were the same 3 states away.. Pete doesn't feel his are inflated.

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