Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just out of interest how many 32 GTR's have been imported here?

Good question.......... I doubt anybody knows or is able to get the answer to this.

What I have done is compared it to other cars currently for sale built between 19898-1994.

My guesstimate is somewhere between 4000-5000 cars but that's all it is, a guesstimate.

I'd be keen to hear from importers who would have a better idea.

Bob.

A few random things.

1. If you had have seen the rubbish that was imported to Straya under the 15 year rule (1989 & a few 1990 model R32's) you would have a healthy scepticism for anything that is left. To be honest I don't know whether or not we got all the crap ones or just all the 89 MY 32's that were ever built. If it were me I would wait for a 1991 version as supply will increase greatly I would have thought as they were mostly not allowed to be imported into Oz.

2. Parts are pretty easy, all things considered.

3. Nostalgia is most of the reason for owning an old car. Most old cars are never restored properly - R32 being no exception.

4. Most cars ont he internet look better than they do in real life. It is only by owning something that you get to know its faults down to the tiniest missing nut, bolt or washer. This was reinforced to me when the owner of a car I thought was the business said of an oil leak "It was only the old dipstick being pushed out of the holder". Well that is ok then. May need to reconsider my position in the whole stand up shouting match I had with my ex engine builder about that very thing.

I'm not knocking nostalgia and I don't expect that all R32s are going to be fully restored - that's generalizing my comment to the extreme. What I'm worried about is that a lot of people won't do their homework and buy a "cheap" Skyline only to end up facing the reality of trying to keep a 25 year old car running that was never sold in the US. I know parts are RELATIVELY easy to come by considering it was never sold here but only when you consider it's a 25-year old JDM car. It certainly isn't a matter of just popping to the corner parts store or even your local Nissan dealer to get one. Compared to Australia or even Canada finding R32 parts in the US right now isn't a simple matter since only a handful of big Nissan dealers and a few import car stores that do a lot of online business even deal with these parts. Even those that do deal in Skyline parts are often out of stock or have to order them from Japan.

Here's one example - I wanted a new clutch for my R32 and I wanted a Nismo Coppermix Twin Plate. US stores - the three that knew of this part - wanted 2200-2500 USD for it and their sites said it would take 4 weeks to get one. I did my homework and ordered directly from Japan for just under 1600 with shipping. It took about 11 days to get the part - fast, all things considered, but not the "around the corner" situation that the video describes.

You guys in Australia are lucky, you've had these cars since they were first produced so you have a solid support structure over there of shops that can work on them and suppliers that can get the parts (heck, I just ordered a couple of parts and new carpet from your fine country for my car). Here in the US though it's going to be a bit of a struggle. Even getting the cars registered has been a nightmare for many owners, myself included. Unfortunately, the importers don't really make much mention of the problems with actually owning a Skyline here in the US (e.g this Motorweek video) so I fear a lot of guys will bite off more than they can chew.

I don't know about being lucky here in Aus.

Things have certainly improved in the last 5 -10 years but prior to that……..

Go to a Nissan dealer for import parts and practically get spat on.

Over time I found the dealers who showed an interest in imports and stayed there.

How many times explaining that the 32 GTR was actually sold here.

For the 20 I'd have to buy an Rb30 exhaust manifold gasket, cut into into bits and massage out the ports.

Cambelts were a dark art with the idler costing mad money from Nissan. Once my local bearing shop did some investigation, cheap as chips.

And as for water pumps, the mix ups are still happening.

Now that most Skyline manuals are available on the net, things have certainly got easier.

Hell I can't even buy a manual for Mr's i-30.

Hi Guys,

I find ordering parts a piece of cake.

I first go to this website and find the part that I need - http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/figlist.php?maker=nissan&type=79&cartype=50

I then copy and paste the full part number into here - http://www.amayama.com/ build my basket and wait 14 days and it's here.

Pretty easy stuff!

Bob.

I don't know about being lucky here in Aus.

Things have certainly improved in the last 5 -10 years but prior to that……..

Go to a Nissan dealer for import parts and practically get spat on.

Over time I found the dealers who showed an interest in imports and stayed there.

How many times explaining that the 32 GTR was actually sold here.

For the 20 I'd have to buy an Rb30 exhaust manifold gasket, cut into into bits and massage out the ports.

Cambelts were a dark art with the idler costing mad money from Nissan. Once my local bearing shop did some investigation, cheap as chips.

And as for water pumps, the mix ups are still happening.

Now that most Skyline manuals are available on the net, things have certainly got easier.

Hell I can't even buy a manual for Mr's i-30.

I'm sure even over there a Skyline isn't as common as say a Commodore or a Civic but it can't be as bad as over here where you have to first explain to EVERYONE that your right-hand drive Skyline is legal. Heck, I still run into people occasionally who think my R35 is a grey market import even though it's left-hand drive and been sold here for 7 years now lol.

At least as Aussie_R32 points out getting parts from Japan is relatively easy - we just have almost no one domestically who stocks parts for them. On a positive note, I'm hoping that with the renewed interest in the R32 because of the US market opening up it might stimulate companies here and in Japan to start developing new parts for them. The US market has been very good at responding to the needs of the import crowd so fingers crossed enough Skylines will find good homes here to get a proper support network set up :)

Hi Guys,

I find ordering parts a piece of cake.

I first go to this website and find the part that I need - http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/figlist.php?maker=nissan&type=79&cartype=50

I then copy and paste the full part number into here - http://www.amayama.com/ build my basket and wait 14 days and it's here.

Pretty easy stuff!

Bob.

That's what I've been doing for my OEM stuff. Just placed another order yesterday and should hopefully have all I need now for the car to go in and get a full respray soon :)

There's been the occasional vehicle that's travelled Japan > UK > Australia.

For instance we had a ZTune go from Japan > Australia > Eastern Europe

I wonder if the same can go for Japan > Australia > USA/Canada?

Would think so terry. It's probably just a matter of the need at the moment. For them getting a car for Australia would inflate the cost more. So until prices go up a bit it may not be worth it.

Kinda feel for the yanks, they get sloppy fourths. First NZ had the pick of the bunch, then AU under RAWS and SEVS, then 15 year rule, then Canada got a whole heap of them under their 15 year rule... so now the stuff that's left in Japan is either top notch examples owned by collectors that command top dollar, or nasty ones that the rest of the world doesn't want.

Getting a GTR out of AU might be better in some cases than out of JP. Lots of Porsche owners are starting to buy cars from AU instead of EU cos of the condition that the cars are used in. Plus we have tighter regulations on repairs and roadworthiness than in JP.

That's exactly what will happen. You can thank this car:

shiii.jpg

I believe that is a R32 GTS-T... Unless GTR's came with a Sunroof?

:laugh:

Love it!

USA car turnover is massive due to population, a throwaway culture and most states using salt throughout harsh winters.

Garaging collectibles is mandatory.

That's one thing I'm thankful about living in Southwest Arizona - it may get hot as f*ck but we don't have to put up with snow or salt so AZ is great for keeping cars good for years. I'm lucky my Nismo has almost no rust and I plan on keeping it that way lol.

  • Like 1

I have had a bit of interest on mine from Canada and the US.

It's very hard for them to understand the rarity.....there in lies the problem.

Are the ADM cars any different from JDM GT-Rs in terms of specs and equipment? My understanding was they were pretty much identical in that regard but please correct me if I'm wrong. The problem with getting interest for an ADM car outside of Oz is that the rarity is of more local significance to Australia - basically they're rare for Oz because they were white market instead of gray market cars but here in the US and Canada an ADM R32 is just another grey market GT-R with the same specs as any other non-limited edition one.

It's a different situation compared to the Nismos and N1s because they were rare globally and were factory specials with a different level of equipment from regular GT-Rs. Being that they're factory limited edition cars Nismos are commanding around twice as much as regular GT-Rs here in the States especially with the motorsport connection thrown in. An ADM car on the other hand would be viewed by a non-Australian as just another GT-R that came from overseas, just not from Japan, and that may actually hurt interest because import fans here in the US are all about the connection to the land of the Rising Sun so honestly the only person I can see that might be willing to pay a premium for an ADM car would be an expat Aussie. I'm not surprised at all that the rarity of the ADM cars is getting lost on us North Americans since to us it's just like deciding between two hot girls who happen to be twins and have PhDs but one wants you to take her out for filet mignon while the other just wants to go grab a burger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...