Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From what i've driven, high comp makes the boost instant, full song around 4k till 8-8.5, which is alright with hondie ratios

Car is 1ton like pulsars, 2L plentyful off boost, gets off line really easy, but then we're drifting off to the silvia vs skyline chassis hear

From what I'm seeing in that graph, definitly not peaky, lots of usable power

Referring to the 300kw one above, is similar set up to mates integra.

Im just bored ok

felt like spamming

f*k yas

4000rpm =/= instant

tweeked Std turbo here.. with a BOV that promises 15% better response again...(not the reason i bought it) that's as good as response as your really going to get.

and I can light them up at 30 in 3rd..(on the deca skid pan with a kick and maybe a puddle)

4000rpm =/= instant

Different things

there "turbo lag" where how long it takes for the turbo to spool up as soon as you step on it (say at 5000rpm you should be at full boost, you're cruising at 5000 cause you're deaccel, then you punch the gas, the lag time between none to full boost)

and "turbo lag" where how early in the rev range full boost is experienced

So easy to hit 4000rpm with honda ratios, heck we sit at 3.5k rpm at 100 in 6th with a type r box

If I'm driving hard and want good response:

Step 1 is BEING IN THE RIGHT GEAR!
You don't need power at 2000rpm, you should have already downshifted two gears and getting it into the peak power band of the engine/turbo setup.

So for me, response isn't about RPM, it's how long the turbo it takes to come onto full boost when I stomp the loud pedal and I'm already at 5000rpm.

A decent power curve is nice below there, makes everything nicer on the street. But don't expect to make balls to the wall power AND have all the power down low in a turbo car, or it'll run out up of go after you get above the midrange (which is where you'll be if you want to go fast)

I'm talking about manuals of course, because fk autos

If I'm driving hard and want good response:

Step 1 is BEING IN THE RIGHT GEAR!

You don't need power at 2000rpm, you should have already downshifted two gears and getting it into the peak power band of the engine/turbo setup.

So for me, response isn't about RPM, it's how long the turbo it takes to come onto full boost when I stomp the loud pedal and I'm already at 5000rpm.

A decent power curve is nice below there, makes everything nicer on the street. But don't expect to make balls to the wall power AND have all the power down low in a turbo car, or it'll run out up of go after you get above the midrange (which is where you'll be if you want to go fast)

I'm talking about manuals of course, because fk autos

Hehe, i like how we both used 5k rpm :rolleyes:

What car you driving these days Jonoe?

stock dc2r for daily, ek going under some works but will take a while since most of my money just went into holidays. Graduate end of this year :D

What's a pulley upgrade?

:rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...