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FYI if interested Brake rotors got taken down to 389mm for clearance and all things adjusted accordingly #bolton Had a quick retune or the retune to change the VCT window plus some of this and that Took 7 weeks for me to get a barrell of fuel to run my car on the track = W.A Actually attempted to drive this thing on the track after 6 months when this shouldve really been 3 monthly ago Only a few laps - stuff didnt go right because electronic aids in the car mean you drive it a certain way when its indicated they are on and they are actually not things dont go great quickly - car fixed and refreshed + thats been fixed with additional warnings and other thing built in now Noted - even mucking around at prob 60 - 70% the aero was now hitting the ground where it hadnt previously at 100% plus the balance of the car is improved - hence without shock pots etc etc you can tell the new aero additions have done something reasonably significant Suspension out - change the bumps and some packers Tried to go out again - lightning and thunder storms / rain in Perht for the first time in 50 years for the hour I had - didnt get out V8SC are now here so no track time at Barbs for many weeks - an going to try go down to our other track a few hours away and try to get in the seat Got the below as a pressie recently - yes I dont mind the odd lego + this is very good I think and if not into lego even can appreciate someones craftmanship of this level -
ok will do, cheers guys build thread on M35 Stagea Tuner Facebook group here if you can't wait. -
look up "kota the yota" on youtube he runs an export business to the us and specialises in r34's -
I understand that the R34 ECU can be sensitive to what is going on wrt the coilpacks/loom. You'd be well advised to put a Consult reader onto the diagnostic port and read the codes. The one(s) in the ECU will be the ones most likely to tell you what's going on. The TCS light will be a secondary effect. -
I thought about a floating dash head unit in my 33 but I decided against as I thought it would just get in the way of aggressive gear changes and when mounted that low you have to look away from the road (vs glancing across like modern car screen positions). I went with a Sony wireless CarPlay head unit: For the amp and sub, I made up a panel to mount to the side of the boot: the sub is a small kicker tube sub that fits above the fuel hat (you have to relocate the HICAS ECU).
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