Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ponsardin...had a bottle of this, it wasn't much chop over the standard Veuve IMO. Perrier Jouet's Belle Époque on the other hand...

Vueve Clicquot Ponsardin is just the full name of the conpany.

Are you referring to the vintage (same bottle but gold label) or Le Grande Dame (more traditional "Dom Perignon) bottle?

The vintage is pretty similar but the Grande Dame is quite a bit nicer. But for $200 it's in Dom Perignon territory and Dom is far better.

I prefer Dom to Belle Epoque too TBH... dem flowers doe...

Was gonna say there's a NEO engine for sale for $2500.

I can't even f**king pay people to do this kind of thing for my car, 100% confident a stock engine will last a lot longer than getting whatever the f**k has gone wrong with mine this time fixed.

I am very used to something like a direct engine swap, when I can get the engine there, just taking 12 weeks because reasons. If y'all can actually get it done in a couple hours I'll just go punch myself in the face some more.

Hind sight is a wonderful thing. If you knew there was an engine version of HAL9000 in your motor, you would have just gotten a replacement.

Vueve Clicquot Ponsardin is just the full name of the conpany.

Are you referring to the vintage (same bottle but gold label) or Le Grande Dame (more traditional "Dom Perignon) bottle?

The vintage is pretty similar but the Grande Dame is quite a bit nicer. But for $200 it's in Dom Perignon territory and Dom is far better.

I prefer Dom to Belle Epoque too TBH... dem flowers doe...

Am referring to the vintage Veuve - on the bottle they spell out the full name unlike the NV

https://www.vintagecellars.com.au/Sparkling/veuve-clicquot-ponsardin-vintage-750ml_37280

I was sure it was on both so I imaged searched VC yellow label, it appears they have had it with and without. Not that any of this matters, it just means I'm not going crazy(er).

Related... WTF do they call it yellow label when it's clearly orange?

Because he has to interact with you?

no, because the cars a mess, im what makes it tolerable

Get on my level brah

I try to tee up 2 weeks of holidays whenever you're booked in because thats how much time needs to be spent on yours to make it okay.

Nailed it.

tee up long service leave soon...

Lol @ paying 2.5x the price for a Neo

To be fair it comes with all accessories, manifolds, wiring loom, ECU, and stock turbo in working order.

If you remove all the costs of the extras, it only comes out a little more than a standard RB25.

I advise all people out there to simply go to where a hiflow will get you on a RB25 (i.e 320ish) because its the point of which everything else breaks or becomes very visible to Mr Plod.

Also its enough for driving as fast you can on the street.

And unless you're quicker than Richo... it's all you need on the track too.

hindsight1.jpg

  • Like 1

I advise all people out there to simply go to where a hiflow will get you on a RB25 (i.e 320ish) because its the point of which everything else breaks or becomes very visible to Mr Plod.

Also its enough for driving as fast you can on the street.
And unless you're quicker than Richo... it's all you need on the track too.

MY GOD... I have said this soooooooo many times... Y u spend $11ty billion b4 u listen?

To be fair it comes with all accessories, manifolds, wiring loom, ECU, and stock turbo in working order.
If you remove all the costs of the extras, it only comes out a little more than a standard RB25.

I paid $1k for an AWD stagea 25 with 70k on the clock from an Auto show car.... with everything... and sold the turbo for $300

  • Like 1

MY GOD... I have said this soooooooo many times... Y u spend $11ty billion b4 u listen?

Did you say this 8 years ago?

The only reason I've persisted is because I got the Stroker kit for near nothing and had a free rebuild coming my way via someone who had a really, really great reputation 8 years ago. Someone who was recommended directly by someone else who owns a certain hub dyno, at the time.

I did initially put a stock neo in, it just got exploded before I took delivery of it, my options were

1) Free replacement neo, which could have the same problem.. or..

2) Near-nothing RB28 upgrade which would have 0kms on it, which you'd think logically would be better option long term.

Again, this was 2007. We all have 8 years of experience since then to see what works longer term and what doesn't seem to. I would still say, that if the engine was implemented correctly that option 2) should still be the better option to go down.

Even if you still only want 320rwkw, it's a better option to have a new engine over an old engine, assuming they are assembled to the same standard, which you would think would happen in most/all professional scenarios.

You'd think.

Also, I'd take 20 year old nissan manufacturing over most builds any day... Al has had to have his built 3 times now aswell, as has Dean.

In fact Dean is like your skyline doppelganger... although he drives the pants off his for the few days it lives at a time

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...