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Hi guys, Looking for some help from the brains trust again please. Recently the RB20 in my 32 overheated, I was able to limp it home and discovered absolutely no coolant in my radiator and steam pissing out of the overflow. Since then, I have flushed the block and the radiator. We discovered that the heater box was blocked so until I can replace that we have deleted it by removing the hoses from the firewall and connecting them to each other. Filled up with coolant and demineralised water and have bled it on a number of occasions for 30-60 minutes. Now I can still drive the car but after about 30 minutes the temp guage starts shooting up and I'm at a bit of a loss as to why. The thermostat appears to be working as the lower rad hose does warm up with the rest of the engine. I'm not losing/leaking any coolant. No oil in coolant or vice versa and my mechanic friend has performed a head check which didn't indicate any gasses passing into the coolant. I've also replaced the radiator cap with a brand new GKtech one (which I have happily used on all my cars without issue) At this point I'm considering the following: Running radflush through the radiator and engine. Replacing radiator and thermostat. Anyone have any other thoughts or suggestions? TIA -
This would be the only reason the dogbone would flex - pushing/pulling it based on unequal load. Not sure how to check for this besides putting a gauge on each bleed nipple and giving it the berries to see what pressure it reads. -
I did think of this - i unbolted the caliper from the dogbone so it was just resting on the disc and the result was the same - the caliper spread about the disc. Ill do this again and get some video this time. I did also use a digital caliper when fitting the kit - the misalignment of the disc to the caliper was <0.5mm. The shims I have are 0.5mm so i wasnt really able to improve alignment. Seemed pretty good off the bat really. I tell ya - this has me thoroughly confused
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Yeah, I just watched the video also (I don't generally watch embed videos because I have to enable them in NoScript before doing so). That's not "caliper flex" in the classic sense. Caliper flex is where the body of the caliper spread because it is not stiff enough to resist being pushed apart by the forced imposed at the piston/pad interface. That whole caliper is moving. That probably means that the dogbone is flexing, which would point to it being too flimsy and/or simply misaligned so that the caliper has no option but to try to centre itself on the disc. The pedal sinking to the floor would have to be unrelated. -
With the caveat that personal imports need to be owned by the person who is importing the car (not a family member, the very same person) and you must be resident outside of Australia for a year. As this one is >25 years, you just follow this procedure, which takes 0.00001 bogomips of googling to find. https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/department/media/news/how-import-your-older-vehicle-25-years-or-older
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