Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline R33 To Turbo Conversion!

Ogun Dullak

By Ogun Dullak,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ogun Dullak Explorer

Ogun Dullak

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, first of all I'd like to start of by saying that I 100% do NOT want to sell my car and 'just buy a gts-t'.

At the time, due to P plate laws I couldn't buy a gts-t so I bought a R33 GTS - 1993 - Series 1.

I've already spent about $1000 doing oil changes, filters, spark plugs and just cleaning the car up, this includes little dings and scratches plus interior and exterior mods etc.

So, my question is, is it really THAT pricey to do a de+t conversion? I've read forums which said they are and others say they're not. I'm not looking to get CRAZY power, just something a little more than what I have.

What parts will I need and roughly how much would it cost for parts + labour?

ALSO I've seen people link the eBay turbo kits which are just bolt on I believe... Sounds hard to believe but surely you can't just bolt on a turbo for $300 without something else blowing up, right?

Any help and opinions would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance!post-140618-14444681685857_thumb.jpgpost-140618-14444681844741_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460285-skyline-r33-to-turbo-conversion/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It is perfectly possible to turbo an NA. It is always a lot more work than expected and when you are starting from the apparently low level of knowledge about these things that you appear to be at, it will either be heartbreaking or a great learning experience.

Most people who do it learn that they should have sold it and bought a GTST.

  • Like 1
Artic Choc Rising Star

Artic Choc

Posted
Posted

How many times must people be told... its a waste of time and money.. if you want to keep the shell.. do an engine swap as per stated.. there are plenty of people on here who have done the +t conversion and flat out said would never do it again its not worth the drama and money. Its not as simple as bolt on a turbo and front mount.. youl need the brakes from a turbo model too and if you want to do it properly then theres alot more other shit youl want to do.. not to mention im sure the CR raitos are diferent to allow safe boost with the DETs

sneakey pete Grand Master

sneakey pete

Posted
Posted

1k in oils and filters?!

you son, got raped

You son, can't read. He said oils, filters, scratches dings and minor exterior mods.

Still sell it and get a gtst.

As said above, difference goes beyond motor.

Brakes, hubs, brake booster, (gearbox?), diff, all different, all better. Cost of upgrading all those vs buying a gtst will be more than the $1000 of maintence you save

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

that $299 turbo is not bolting on to your car for $299. Ask yo'self, do you have a turbo exhaust manifold for the turbo to bolt to. Do you have a turbo exhaust? Do you have a turbo ecu? I only have 2 more pieces of advice. Search on here more, and save a lot more $$ first. And post pics of any sisters you have in the wasteland forum, people here love that and you will make friends quick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...