Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car

[Duncan]

That is easiest*, you do need the car up nice and high if you are doing it on stands to get the box to engine angle straight, otherwise you will have issues getting the shaft into the bush.

 

*opinions may vary.

[admS15]

On 29/09/2023 at 1:44 PM, Duncan said:

That is easiest*, you do need the car up nice and high if you are doing it on stands to get the box to engine angle straight, otherwise you will have issues getting the shaft into the bush.

 

*opinions may vary.

I'm very good at getting shaft into bush😂 

[GTSBoy]

38 minutes ago, admS15 said:

I'm very good at getting shaft into bush😂 

You'll doubt yourself after you've tried this one though.

[No Crust Racing]

19 hours ago, admS15 said:

Free motor, yes please. Please supply all parts (nitto only), machine, assemble and ship to me. 😂

Anyway, I've offered, not much more I can do to assist here. Hope it goes well. 

[No Crust Racing]

Re box, box is a lot easier to move around than the engine IMO. 

You will want 2 sets of hands regardless. 

Personally, I'd put the engine in then bring the box to meet it as it's easier to maneuver. 

If your engine crane setup has the balance bar, that can help immensely. Otherwise, use ratcheting straps, but remember they only go one way under load

[admS15]

On 29/09/2023 at 3:33 PM, No Crust Racing said:

Anyway, I've offered, not much more I can do to assist here. Hope it goes well. 

Offer is noted and thank you 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

2 hours ago, admS15 said:

Anyone see any issues with trying to get the replacement engine back in (when I get one) with gearbox in situ?  Is it doable or a major ball ache?

Personally I find it easier doing the motor/box in one go, aligning the motor to box is a cnut, however my delicate IT hands aren't good at ramming shafts into bushes like @Duncan

Just remember to take out the shifter from inside the car, rookie mistake on my part when I pulled out motor #1 with the box attached.

[admS15]

I'm trying to remove the least amount possible, there is obviously a shitload of stuff already off. I'll try offering bush to shaft first and see what happens. Hopefully ends up balls deep without much fuss.

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

I'm trying to remove the least amount possible, there is obviously a shitload of stuff already off. I'll try offering bush to shaft first and see what happens. Hopefully ends up balls deep without much fuss.

Once you have the motor out, it's literally exhaust, unbolt centre of tail shaft from chassis (2 bolts) and then 4 bolts for shaft removal from diff, then 4 bolts for gearbox cross member, and the box will drop straight down.

 

Put the engine in the car, onto engine mounts loosely, leave engine attached to crank, but at rear of engine. Engine will tilt backward a bit.

With 2 people is easiest, offer box up to engine, do a few bolts up. Tilt the engine and box back to normal position, and put everything back together.

 

Putting engine and box I to the GTST is doable, but it's a lot of weight, up high, at an awkward angle. If you're not really careful, you're going to scratch the firewall, the tunnel, or the radiator support, or all 3.

Ask me how I know...

 

It is possible to also offer the motor to the gearbox with gearbox still in position, in this instance, I'd have engine mounts removed from engine to give you ease of sliding engine forwards/backwards to get your bush shafted, without smashing mounts to cross member while trying to line it all up.

 

 

However you do it, the absolute most important thing to do, is make 100% sure the clutch plate is align before tightening the pressure plate. I strongly recommend buying, borrowing, begging, or even stealing one to help yourself (or a spare gearbox input shaft). If clutch plate isn't aligned, no matter how much of a master you are, you'll look like a teenager trying to do it for the first time, possibly even asking yourself "is it in? is that it? Am I doing this right?"

[admS15]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Just need an engine now.

@MBS206 I have a clutch alignment tool for RB25 shafting.

Back in my P plate days, I had an RX4 coupe, blew many many gearboxes. Used to align the clutch with a cut down broomstick and eyeball. Got really good at it by about the 3rd time. Could do a gearbox swap in under an hour on that thing. Was awesome to work on, you could get inside the engine bay and stand next to the rotor motor Dorito. 

[No Crust Racing]

I have recently had to install a new clutch twice, and the box went on no worries both times, once in and once out of the car.

Both times without an aligning tool, mine is MIA, you really can just do it by eye. I was shocked at how easy it was without it. 

[r32-25t]

You don’t need an alignment tool if you have a single plate clutch, with muti plate you do because you need to line the splines up in each plate as well 

[No Crust Racing]

Yes, should have clarified that, thought it would be obvious to those playing at home. 

[admS15]

Decided to take the box out to save on potential headfarks when reinstalling. Removal went smoothly, engine bay is ready for something new. 

 

 

 

 

Finding an engine and the people you have to deal with is demoralising. Engine builder I saw the other day told me of an engine he saw at a local wrecker. I went and enquired at said wrecker, they get back to me today saying the engine has slight damage to a cam cover and throttle body. I get there to check it out, it's covered in like 5 years of dust, has been dropped or had something heavy dropped on top of it. Had a box with it too, cracked rear housing. I try turning it over, locked solid. Looks like something is jamming up the cam or could be bent from the impact it took. These idiots thought they could ask 3k for this thing, they don't even know if it was running when they got it. Unbelievable.

I'm trying to get it for scrap/rebuild value, so at least I have a block and hopefully good crank to work with. They're going to get their mechanic to pull some stuff off it tomorrow and see if it'll spin over and get back to me.

They also had an R34 na neo there, couldn't give me a price on it as they want to do research on it. I've got a feeling both these motors are gonna stay there for a long long time.

 

Other bloke who was selling na neo started being all evasive about organising a time to inspect and possibly make a deal. It's like these people don't want to sell. Kind of against the point of advertising something for sale. 

Anyway, patience is going to be required here. This is going to take a while.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Remember the days RB25s were like $1500 and actually were in decent condition?

Seems cheaper to put in a Barra.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

@NEO25T you still lurking around? Any spare complete motors you may want to sell?

[admS15]

Yep, fair enough prices have gone up as less is available but trying to ask 3.5k for potential scrap is just ridiculous.

[Kinkstaah]

6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Remember the days RB25s were like $1500 and actually were in decent condition?

Seems cheaper to put in a Barra.

I mean, this is literally one of the main reasons I did the swap back then....

haverb30blockpricesgoneupbysimilarvalues?

[R3N3]

6 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I mean, this is literally one of the main reasons I did the swap back then....

haverb30blockpricesgoneupbysimilarvalues?

Gone are the days of cheap RB’s (in NZ anyway):

RB30 block from wrecker - $1000-1200

Complete engine from wrecker $6.5k (S2) to $8k (Neo)

I have my eye on a rebuilt Neo head and that’s $4k….

Barra would be much more economical.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

there was a time you could pick up a VL motor, complete for $600, and that wasn't even long ago!