Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

28 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

Is it weird to get attached to things purely because they have lived a long life?

No. You can trust that thing. You can't necessarily trust the thing you buy from Bunnings.

9 minutes ago, admS15 said:

I would prefer cheap mineral oil for break in

I'm with you. It's kinda six of one, half dozen of the other. A good mineral diesel oil is actually a really good choice. High detergent, because diesel, no friction modifiers (because diesel engines are typically low speed engines). Perhaps that's less true now than it used to be though. All the high speed diesels in those shitty Mazda Karens and the like have probably meant changes for diesel oil formulation.

Interestingly, my petrol toyota engine specs the exact same oil as the diesel variant of that car, and guess what, those petrol engines are known to last forever and be clean as a whistle inside... 

 

12 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

True of almost every aspect of cars really... 

food for thought, brand new OEM performance cars don't use any form of break in oil either.

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

food for thought, brand new OEM performance cars don't use any form of break in oil either.

Not really comparable though? 

I would expect a brand new performance engine to have been assembled in a very clean environment using high quality components and have most variables finally controlled. Heck, that'd probably include the knowing how much "material" the first oil fill will need "hold" from the break in process (if they are not being broken in on a dyno and having oil dumped immediately after). 

Not quite the same as refreshing an engine that's had a spun bearing go through it or similar where you're re-using some parts that may or may not be hiding a plethora of debris. 

Cost of engine rebuild? Many many thousands usually, $$ you save using plain mineral/something else oil vs break in oil for the first change? $50 - $100 if you're lucky? Break in oil is not exactly expensive. 

Good mineral diesel oil ~ same cost as break in oil anyway. Would rather use the product specifically designed for the process personally with my extensive engine building experience (1). 




 

Edited by No Crust Racing
17 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

.....I would expect a brand new performance engine to have been assembled in a very clean environment using high quality components and have most variables finally controlled. .....

I reckon not, performance or not they get slung together by a person that does the same tasks every 90 seconds for 8 hours.

I'll bet replacing an occasional engine in warranty is just an understood cost of doing business, most of the time they are lucky, sometimes they are not.

15 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

your Speedflow invoice

Could have bought another JDM shit box with it.

I feel dirty there are 3x Aeroflow fittings on my car, but I didn't put them on. Already have 1x Speedflow fitting to replace. 2x more are on the Plazmaman plenum on the underside, too hard basket lol.

I received a package the other day from @Komdotkom he said to me I hope your wife has a sense of humour (not sure her sense of humour would extend to this). A few days later this turned up.

IMG_20231122_211318278.thumb.jpg.1e0ac584f99420a50eb38c52a48aef0b.jpg

Thankfully Im usually home before the wife so I could intercept the parcel. That particular day I got home and nothing had arrived yet. An hour later I heard something at the door so I opened up and there's my 8 year old daughter holding the above box, she hands it to me and says daddy you've got a parcel. Thank god she didn't read the return address or give it to my wife. Dragon lady crisis avoided, lol.

I don't have a pic on hand but inside the package was a RB head drain. Funny looking 3xl rectal probe that.

Going along with the theme of this build which is budget focused (tight arse), I found a couple of hydraulic fittings from work with sufficient ID to use on either end and some 19mm nitrile rubber hose. Working in a rubber factory has it's perks, occasionally. It's not pretty but will do the job.

 

  • Haha 5
6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Could have bought another JDM shit box with it.

I feel dirty there are 3x Aeroflow fittings on my car

I did mine in the BMRS crimp on stuff, the -16 fittings for the dry sump were quite expensive. 

 

6 hours ago, admS15 said:

I received a package the other day from @Komdotkom he said to me I hope your wife has a sense of humour (not sure her sense of humour would extend to this). A few days later this turned up.

IMG_20231122_211318278.thumb.jpg.1e0ac584f99420a50eb38c52a48aef0b.jpg

Thankfully Im usually home before the wife so I could intercept the parcel. That particular day I got home and nothing had arrived yet. An hour later I heard something at the door so I opened up and there's my 8 year old daughter holding the above box, she hands it to me and says daddy you've got a parcel. Thank god she didn't read the return address or give it to my wife. Dragon lady crisis avoided, lol.

I don't have a pic on hand but inside the package was a RB head drain. Funny looking 3xl rectal probe that.

 

Just wait until the 18 " jellydonger arrives!

  • Like 1

Getting there

 

 

IMG_20231203_120717866_HDR.thumb.jpg.6f9f34a448da6f756d9a03a0a2a0de23.jpg

IMG_20231203_120750234.thumb.jpg.a42530877c4e4e698ad635a41c0f89e4.jpg

IMG_20231203_123228503_HDR.thumb.jpg.9a7b2c902fd6d3ce1a0a272ecce8db56.jpg

 

That's as far as I got before having to go do dad things.

I'm thinking on going with a .8mm washer to shim the oil pump relief valve. I could double up and run 1.6mm.  Just trying to keep the oil pressure same as before as the bearing clearances are bigger now. Do you guys reckon .8mm should be sufficient? Don't want to over do it.

I've kind of settled on the idea of .8mm but the pan hasn't been put on yet with sealant so can change it.

  • Like 2
On 03/12/2023 at 9:23 PM, Komdotkom said:

At least you know how to change it if it's not enough! It's a pity they aren't accessible without removing the sump (and the engine)

It's done now, the sump is on and buttoned up. Went with the .8mm,  engine builder suggested 1mm and shook his head when I said 2mm. Time will tell.

If it's not enough, can always run this stuff, lol

 

Screenshot_20231203-213416-876.thumb.png.2713f7ce94459c5c4fe384efa90f59ea.png

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List: 1.Anna S 2. Luke S 3. Jesse Givens-Lamb 4. Luca Stamatescu 5. Madeleine Stamatescu    
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...