Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 09/12/2023 at 10:18 PM, MBS206 said:

Yeah, but, it's like go and buy a Nissan filter. Nissan didn't make it, it's likely a Ryco etc.

 

You bought exedy, but "they didn't make" that specific part.

Chances are, lots of actual exedy kits are, and have been, running aisin plates for ages.

Yes but when you buy that Nissan/Ryco filter it comes in a Nissan box labelled as Nissan. In this case it was in an Aisin box. A heads up would have been nice. If I had received it in an Exedy box I wouldn't have a problem if that's what Exedy supplied. I don't really care as long as it does the job as well as the Exedy did. 8 years of 300+rwkw with a fair bit of abuse. Time will tell as always.

On 09/12/2023 at 10:22 PM, MBS206 said:

The question is, when you bled the coolant, did you do so with the heater tap fully opened and heater on?

If you haven't, you may have an air bubble in the heater core, double check your coolant level and overflow bottle.

I have a swirl pot thingy, constantly self bleeding. If it is air in there it will sort itself out soon enough.

10 hours ago, admS15 said:

Thanks @Komdotkom I'm up to 125km now. Wow 500, I was thinking 200. Suppose I'll leave it a bit longer then. 

 

You can change the oil but I'd avoid full synthetic until you've done a few more km. Chrome or iron rings? If they're iron go for it they'll be fine, chome just a bit longer 

  • Like 1
46 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Um, ZF-HP8 is the new hotness. Get with the program brah.

That's true, would love a ZF box in my car.

Actually would love a M3 Wagon, S58, ZF, xDrive makes me horny.

On 10/12/2023 at 10:08 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

 

Actually would love a M3 Wagon, S58, ZF, xDrive makes me horny.

I'd like one of those too, ultimate family vehicle, ain't happening though. I can only dream. 

16 hours ago, admS15 said:

Yes but when you buy that Nissan/Ryco filter it comes in a Nissan box labelled as Nissan. In this case it was in an Aisin box. A heads up would have been nice. If I had received it in an Exedy box I wouldn't have a problem if that's what Exedy supplied. I don't really care as long as it does the job as well as the Exedy did. 8 years of 300+rwkw with a fair bit of abuse. Time will tell as always.

I have a swirl pot thingy, constantly self bleeding. If it is air in there it will sort itself out soon enough.

Not always are those parts in a "Nissan" package etc.

I've bought Toyota parts, on Toyota part numbers, from a Toyota dealership, and they come in the manufacturers boxes. The current one that springs straight to mind was Toyota wheel bearings, were in SKF boxes from memory.

If it gets re-boxed/rebranded, you just pay more. So long as it's the correct/same part I'd be happy. That's the part I'd be double checking with the supplier. :)

On 10/12/2023 at 3:46 PM, MBS206 said:

Not always are those parts in a "Nissan" package etc.

I've bought Toyota parts, on Toyota part numbers, from a Toyota dealership, and they come in the manufacturers boxes. The current one that springs straight to mind was Toyota wheel bearings, were in SKF boxes from memory.

If it gets re-boxed/rebranded, you just pay more. So long as it's the correct/same part I'd be happy. That's the part I'd be double checking with the supplier. :)

Doesn't seem to be slipping, so it shouldn't be a problem. I did check the coolant level a little earlier and I was able to get almost another litre in there. We'll see how that effects the heater.

Up to 200km now. Pretty sure rings are seated now but I'll give it another 100km. Gave it a few pulls in 3rd and 4th till around 5.5-6k rpm and 1 pull in 2nd to 7300rpm. Roll on skidded a bit. She feels good and definitely making the power. Got to 1.4bar, that's full boost. All good and loved it. I put the rear seats in too, no more knocking, it was the rear trims flapping about. 

Found a couple more clamps that I hadn't seated properly, fixed those up. Pretty chuffed with myself. Can now add successfuly rebuilding an rb25 to my mechanical achievements.

Maybe I should go and get my TM racing 250 2 stroke dirt bike engine (once upon a time I thought I was Mr Motorcross) and Mazda 13B Bridgeport thats been left at my parents house and get on to fixing those. I'm sure that will make wifey happy, lol.

 

  • Like 3
7 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Up to 200km now. Pretty sure rings are seated now but I'll give it another 100km. Gave it a few pulls in 3rd and 4th till around 5.5-6k rpm and 1 pull in 2nd to 7300rpm. Roll on skidded a bit. She feels good and definitely making the power. Got to 1.4bar, that's full boost. All good and loved it. I put the rear seats in too, no more knocking, it was the rear trims flapping about. 

Found a couple more clamps that I hadn't seated properly, fixed those up. Pretty chuffed with myself. Can now add successfuly rebuilding an rb25 to my mechanical achievements.

Maybe I should go and get my TM racing 250 2 stroke dirt bike engine (once upon a time I thought I was Mr Motorcross) and Mazda 13B Bridgeport thats been left at my parents house and get on to fixing those. I'm sure that will make wifey happy, lol.

 

I was going to reply to your clutch reply, but then red motocross and 13B...

 

13B, definitely get it, find some parts to give it a basic freshen up while you clean it up as much as possible, and sell it.

Will likely pay off everything you spent on RB25 :P

 

alternatively, secure yourself another 13B, and go watch a couple of Rob Dahms latest videos on building 4 rotor 1000hp engines, and how they're making it more affordable for the average Joe...

 

PS, if wife is giving too much trouble, considering investing in divorce. It's really expensive, but you can't put a value on freedom and car shenanigans.

  • Haha 3

Do not give me evil thoughts, lol.

The 13B I bought around 25 years ago, was meant to go into an RX2 coupe project. Decided to temporarily run it in my daily RX4 coupe. It ran and sounded tuff AF at idle. Once you got on it though, the party stopped when it should've been getting started. At 5k rpm on  it felt like it was running on 1 rotor, should of revved to 10k. A comp test verified compression was all over the place.

It would require disassembly and assessment to see what is actually the issue. If there's damage to the rotors or housings it could be done for. Could still probably sell some parts off it.

I remember going to buy it. It was advertised in the trading post as a rebuilt motor. Located in Corio Geelong, pretty rough area at the time. Me and a mate drove down there, we where pretty close, still on the freeway and a group of dirt bikes is on the road with us, all of a sudden a CR 500 wheelies past us. Mate and I where like, jeez Geelong aye. We pull up to the house and what do you know, here comes Mr CR 500. It's the guy selling the engine. Probably shouldn't have bought it after seeing him ride. He also had a, I think was a cook or Norman supercharger as well and I was contemplating what to get but went for the engine as that would've went in the RX2.

Either that bloke stuffed up on assembly or was just dodgy AF and put together stuffed parts. Probably the latter, I haven't been game for 25 years to find out. I think it's time, lol.

The engine itself was originally built and ported by lk tuning (Larry kogge, engine is stamped) who was prominent in rotary building and racing in the era. Was also a racing beat distributor so would of had access to their port designs. The porting in this thing should be ace.

 

There's only so much Rob dahm you can watch. Have you seen the tear down of the 12 rotor some American built for his race boat, just so he could be different. That is just next level amazing. I don't think I've ever seen a 1 off to that level anywhere else. Seriously amazing. The guys name escapes me right now.

Link to article about said 12 rotor Tyson Garvin is the guy who designed and built it

https://www.motor1.com/news/675726/only-12-rotor-engine-in-the-world/

  • Like 1

ADM S15 Silvia with a 13B turbo, running A/C, airbags and a wild stereo sounds good.

True street car, yesterday in the 40°C heat, didn't see a single "street" car on the road nor anyone in cars with their windows down.

Love hearing guys saying "you don't need AC, just wind the window down". 

5 hours ago, admS15 said:

Do not give me evil thoughts, lol.

The 13B I bought around 25 years ago, was meant to go into an RX2 coupe project. Decided to temporarily run it in my daily RX4 coupe. It ran and sounded tuff AF at idle. Once you got on it though, the party stopped when it should've been getting started. At 5k rpm on  it felt like it was running on 1 rotor, should of revved to 10k. A comp test verified compression was all over the place.

It would require disassembly and assessment to see what is actually the issue. If there's damage to the rotors or housings it could be done for. Could still probably sell some parts off it.

I remember going to buy it. It was advertised in the trading post as a rebuilt motor. Located in Corio Geelong, pretty rough area at the time. Me and a mate drove down there, we where pretty close, still on the freeway and a group of dirt bikes is on the road with us, all of a sudden a CR 500 wheelies past us. Mate and I where like, jeez Geelong aye. We pull up to the house and what do you know, here comes Mr CR 500. It's the guy selling the engine. Probably shouldn't have bought it after seeing him ride. He also had a, I think was a cook or Norman supercharger as well and I was contemplating what to get but went for the engine as that would've went in the RX2.

Either that bloke stuffed up on assembly or was just dodgy AF and put together stuffed parts. Probably the latter, I haven't been game for 25 years to find out. I think it's time, lol.

The engine itself was originally built and ported by lk tuning (Larry kogge, engine is stamped) who was prominent in rotary building and racing in the era. Was also a racing beat distributor so would of had access to their port designs. The porting in this thing should be ace.

 

There's only so much Rob dahm you can watch. Have you seen the tear down of the 12 rotor some American built for his race boat, just so he could be different. That is just next level amazing. I don't think I've ever seen a 1 off to that level anywhere else. Seriously amazing. The guys name escapes me right now.

Link to article about said 12 rotor Tyson Garvin is the guy who designed and built it

https://www.motor1.com/news/675726/only-12-rotor-engine-in-the-world/

Pick up the engine, tear it down! Answer that 25 year old question!!!

As to "only so much" ha ha ha ha

That 12 rotor boat engine, is the only reason I'm subscribed to him, and I watched his couple of recent vids on building the billet 4 rotors after Mazda hiked the price of rotaries recently.

Other than that, I'm not a fan of his YouTube format.

12 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ADM S15 Silvia with a 13B turbo, running A/C, airbags and a wild stereo sounds good.

True street car, yesterday in the 40°C heat, didn't see a single "street" car on the road nor anyone in cars with their windows down.

Love hearing guys saying "you don't need AC, just wind the window down". 

I drove mine to a car show yesterday whilst screaming at whichever previous owner ripped the A/C out

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2

I love A/C, love it on cool down laps at the track.

Would be better if I could just keep it on full time on the track, however I find it pushes the coolant temp over 100°C.

AC off, I can thrash its mum and it never goes past 100°C.

On 10/12/2023 at 10:20 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ADM S15 Silvia with a 13B turbo, running A/C, airbags and a wild stereo sounds good.

 

There was a guy who built exactly that, I think it might have been on NS.COM

Still though, RX7 FD is ultimate. Would own anyway.

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

That's me. I drive in 40°C heat with the windows down most of the time (that it is 40°C, anyway).

Driving on the weekend, air con on full blast, opened a window as dog wanted to get smashed in the face with bugs.

No difference in temp, may as well drop all the windows and run full flow air!

 

Obviously these guys live further south in cooler climates where AC continues to operate 😛

Edited by MBS206

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...