Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i finally bought myself a R33 GTR and got it back down here to melbourne, now i really need to get it on a dyno and tuned properly, where would you guys recommend that's both fairly priced and knows their rb26's?

post-141809-0-42421800-1449440057_thumb.jpg

I'm also looking at getting the plastic surrounding the dash wrapped in leather or replaced for carbon fibre (it's a little scratched up and looks out of place compared to the rest of the car which is mint).

Any help would be appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461512-best-place-for-tuning-melbourne/
Share on other sites

Trent @ ChequeredTuning.

https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning

He has years of experience with RB26's, we know a few happy customers of his.

Thats our Supercharged Honda S2000 on top of his page that he did for us the other day........drives beautifully and goes hard......

For GT-R's and RB26 here is the only place to go, they will also be able to fix any issues that arise while tuning and tell you if the car is on the money so to speak.

Racepace Motorsport

(03) 9762 9421

Also there is a sticky at the top of the forum with other tuning shops

  • Like 2

Thanks guys, i'm gonna go with racepace i think.

Does anyone know a place that can get plastic wrapped in carbon fibre (with the bath they do in the water to give it a layer) as my plastic around the dash is all scratched up and the only really shitty thing about the interior.

  • Like 1

For GT-R's and RB26 here is the only place to go, they will also be able to fix any issues that arise while tuning and tell you if the car is on the money so to speak.

Racepace Motorsport

(03) 9762 9421

Also there is a sticky at the top of the forum with other tuning shops

+1 to racepace.

car gets better and better every time it goes there

Racepace for me as well.

RPM have looked after my car. Not sure if I have gotten worse and worse but my car is definitely getting better and better.

10 year long (and happy) customer of Racepace here.

Given you're usually the instigator, long as you don't, it should be fine? :D

Just making sure you know that Racepace is where to go for a tune :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...