Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was looking at this kit - https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-rb26-r33-r34-gtr-metal-jacket-harmonic-damper/

But read a number of reports about issues with PS belts being thrown.

A friend of mine works at Ross (came over when Omega bought them out) and claims they fixed an inherent design issue with the wrong offset on the pulley grooves when they came onboard.

I'm wondering if anyone has bought and used one of these in recent times and can report back on how you've found it?

They're mint now. Killer product and customer service is better than ever. I'm using their gear on my new build too.

So you have experience with it, or you're just talking up all the shit people gave you for free?

  • Like 1

I had two for the last ten years.

The early one still never through any belts, and the new one has the trigger wheel setup on it and it is all good too.

Great product, bit pricey for their trigger kit, but super well made.

So you have experience with it, or you're just talking up all the shit people gave you for free?

People actually using them need to pipe up as it all feels hit and miss. I am holding off buying new OE as long as i can in case these things become a proven setup

As per the original post. Interested in people who have recently bought, not bought one years ago.

Just to clarify.

so you'd buy a part that proven to be f**ked because they "probably should" have fixed the problem now?

No.

I've already decided to leave the stock one.

Given there's clearly been some discussion on this here, I didnt think it would hurt to continue the thread if there was new info at hand.

Have you considered chilling out a bit?

My Ross damper was purchased in the pre Omega technical days. We recently pulled the engine to fit a bigger sump and open up some clearances only to find the balancer has chewed up the nose of the crank. Car has only done two dyno sessions and one light shakedown. Bearings looked good fortunately but we have some work to do to clean up the front of the crank.

The guys at Omega have the balancer for inspection at the moment. Have to say so far they've taken it seriously and aren't doing any of the finger pointing you normally expect in this sort of situation. Sounds like there have been a number of significant design improvements since Omega took over as well.

Whether I'm game to put it back onto the engine will depend on what happens next.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...