Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will they still be the same price/availability as now? I need to save the money and also need to get off my P plates as I don't want to waste my time with a non turbo one but I am also kinda worried that they will be hard as f**k to find in two or so years.. so much so I am almost considering taking out a personal loan and getting one now to make sure I can get my hands on one.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I am very new to the import scene.

Edited by thfchayden
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463709-skylines-in-two-years/
Share on other sites

I for one won't be taking my cars to the grave.

I'm so old I'll be selling everything at some stage or other; unless I come to an abrupt end.

I'm so twisted no-one agreed when I wanted to organise a cruise from a cemetery.

I have no idea how much my cars are worth.

You can PM me for my full name so you can find it one day in the obituaries and then track "deceased estates".

:P

Srsly, there's one guy older than me who owns a KPGC10, KPGC110, Group A R32 GTRs etc, and makes my collection look puny.

But the fact is; we all started from a place just like you!!! :)

  • Like 2

I for one won't be taking my cars to the grave.

I'm so old I'll be selling everything at some stage or other; unless I come to an abrupt end.

I'm so twisted no-one agreed when I wanted to organise a cruise from a cemetery.

I have no idea how much my cars are worth.

You can PM me for my full name so you can find it one day in the obituaries and then track "deceased estates".

:P

Srsly, there's one guy older than me who owns a KPGC10, KPGC110, Group A R32 GTRs etc, and makes my collection look puny.

But the fact is; we all started from a place just like you!!! :)

give them to me. You know ill look after them.

  • Like 1

people were thinking the same thing in 2014. they will be around for some time longer. Whether they will be more expensive or not, who knows. its not going to be significantly more expensive though... just plan/budget for $10k, then you have options. Not scraping the bottom of the barrel $5k region.

But what might be more interesting, are some of the cars that are going to be similarly priced in 2 years time... think of all the Eurotrash and more inconspicuous turbo cars that will be affordable in that time...

2 years is plenty of time to save up for a car. In that time you would of changed your mind anyway and a lot of the 25k+ cars now will come down to about 18k. I remember opting for a r33 GTR once i got off my Ps, instead i jumped into an Evo. I wouldnt stress about it now, just save up and have a goal and then buy the car when you turn 22...or if you still havent reached your goal then wait another few months and save a little more. You dont have to get a turbo car straight off the bat. Heck you could even go all out on a r34 GTR if you were patient enough and managed your money well. An r34 GTR at 25 years of age is pretty impressive if you start saving now ;)

Ps: at your age (which is pretty much my age) i would never get a loan on a car. Waste of money.

  • Like 2

They're going up in price for some unknown reason.

You see S1 R33 on the likes of Drift Sales being sold for like 8k and S2 R33 going for the 10k. Ridiculous

I call bullshit. You see them advertised for $8k but I bet they don't sell for anywhere near that much unless they are a bit special.

2 years is plenty of time to save up for a car. In that time you would of changed your mind anyway and a lot of the 25k+ cars now will come down to about 18k. I remember opting for a r33 GTR once i got off my Ps, instead i jumped into an Evo. I wouldnt stress about it now, just save up and have a goal and then buy the car when you turn 22...or if you still havent reached your goal then wait another few months and save a little more. You dont have to get a turbo car straight off the bat. Heck you could even go all out on a r34 GTR if you were patient enough and managed your money well. An r34 GTR at 25 years of age is pretty impressive if you start saving now ;)

Ps: at your age (which is pretty much my age) i would never get a loan on a car. Waste of money.

Thanks for the amazing reply mate, will start saving!!

  • Like 1

2 years is plenty of time to save up for a car. In that time you would of changed your mind anyway and a lot of the 25k+ cars now will come down to about 18k. I remember opting for a r33 GTR once i got off my Ps, instead i jumped into an Evo. I wouldnt stress about it now, just save up and have a goal and then buy the car when you turn 22...or if you still havent reached your goal then wait another few months and save a little more. You dont have to get a turbo car straight off the bat. Heck you could even go all out on a r34 GTR if you were patient enough and managed your money well. An r34 GTR at 25 years of age is pretty impressive if you start saving now ;)

Ps: at your age (which is pretty much my age) i would never get a loan on a car. Waste of money.

So wait 2-5 years. Save for a R34R which is currently appreciating in leaps and bounds and will be probably be min 65k+ for price of entry (conservative guess). Then hope like hell things don't start breaking (which they will as 32-34R's are all ancient now).

Good advice.

So wait 2-5 years. Save for a R34R which is currently appreciating in leaps and bounds and will be probably be min 65k+ for price of entry (conservative guess). Then hope like hell things don't start breaking (which they will as 32-34R's are all ancient now).

Good advice.

So by your logic, if the r34 GTR becomes unreliable by 18 years of age, your R32 GTR must be a piece of crap? You know, given its less refined, already 20+ years and "things starts breaking".

Im sorry, if you're going to generalise that my advice was bad, when in fact i was giving him a goal which teaches him patience and motivation to save money, then i'm just going to be a flamin mongrel to you. Also read half the comments here, and pick on them. They do not attend to the OP's question at all.. If you have an opinion on whats been said, try not to be a sarcastic prick and piss people off.

Bit to personal there.

They are getting old. This is a fact.

Shit breaks. This is also a fact.

I agree mate, Anything 2nd hand thats been boosted and tuned is destined to break eventually, thats a given.

He could of simply said that.. I mean surley its not that hard: its easy, look: "Hey mate, i think saving up for a r34 GTR wouldnt be the best advice as those things are appreciating and becoming less reliable as time goes on. But i do agree with him saving his money and buying something of value in the near future"

Instead, he was straight up a sarcastic douche. Hence why i got personal.

Anyways, apologies RBN1, I didnt mean what i said mate, its the internet, i forget that..

So by your logic, if the r34 GTR becomes unreliable by 18 years of age, your R32 GTR must be a piece of crap? You know, given its less refined, already 20+ years and "things starts breaking".

Im sorry, if you're going to generalise that my advice was bad, when in fact i was giving him a goal which teaches him patience and motivation to save money, then i'm just going to be a flamin mongrel to you. Also read half the comments here, and pick on them. They do not attend to the OP's question at all.. If you have an opinion on whats been said, try not to be a sarcastic prick and piss people off.

Relax, mate. I apologise if the way i phrased it upset you.

Also a 32 GTR is less refined than a 34. Fact. It is also 80% the same car as a 34. I got my 32R when it was 15 years old from Japan (2004) so I know as do a lot of folks on here how much they (32-34R) cost to build and run. A 34R is now as old or older than mine when I got it.

btw I didn't generalise as to why it wasn't good advice. I was quite specific.

All good Derrick, it is the internet.

Bonus fact -

1. I wish I had bought an EVO, had more seat time on the track over the years and saved all that cash that goes towards having a GTR.

To the OP. If you want a Skyline. A GTS/T/25T/GTT will still be around in years to come and stay cheap.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...