Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will they still be the same price/availability as now? I need to save the money and also need to get off my P plates as I don't want to waste my time with a non turbo one but I am also kinda worried that they will be hard as f**k to find in two or so years.. so much so I am almost considering taking out a personal loan and getting one now to make sure I can get my hands on one.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I am very new to the import scene.

Start saving!

Just out of interest and to give you an idea if you are in the market for a R34 GTR Nur, whether it be a V-Spec II Nur or M-Spec Nur

Nur.jpg

This car would have been around $80K - $90K landed in AUS the most.

Start saving!

Just out of interest and to give you an idea if you are in the market for a R34 GTR Nur, whether it be a V-Spec II Nur or M-Spec Nur

Nur.jpg

This car would have been around $80K - $90K landed in AUS the most.

J, more like AUD175K after what it went for at sale.

  • Like 1

For comparisons sake, the brand new prices for these were:

1999-2002 (Lowest forex rate : ¥55, Highest ¥83)

Mspec Nur : ¥6,300,000

Vspec 2 Nur: ¥6,100,000

Vspec 2 N1 : ¥6,090,000

Vspec N1 : ¥5,998,000

Mspec : ¥5,950,000

Vspec 2 : ¥5,748,000

Vspec (1999 series 1) : ¥ 5,559,800

Non Vspec (2000 series 2) : ¥5,048,000

Non Vspec (1999 series 1) : ¥ 4,998,000

Source : Various Nissan catalogs, brochures, magazines & official Nissan japan website.

  • Like 1

A car with under 6k on it isn't a good example of a average car, if it has been stored correctly you are basically buying a brand new R34 GTR.

Look at the price any premium car with minimal km.

What's the price of them selling with 50k on them or 100k, I saw one with 60k on it for 45k$ a while ago, admittedly that was a bit rough but the average price I've found advertised is 70k-80k, how much they sell for is another story.

Plus its a well known fact that most cars are assumed to have tampered speedos, even non import fans I know talk about wound back clocks when talking about imports, unless of course you have full documentation for the car.

I've learnt that what someone advertises a car for and what they eventually sell it for are two different things.

Get on the carsales sites, there plenty of every model on there, some cheap stuff, some not so cheap, low ball the f**k out of them, you will get someone who needs the cash, some will complain, just give them your card with your number, most people are asking to much for their cars anyway, and after trying to sell it for a few months at a inflated price reality hits when the bills come in.

And whilst they are apparently desirable in other countries how many are being shipped from AU, the market will always be talked up by the owners and fan boys, some people will spend to much on buying whilst others will get a good deal if they are smart.

Me, I'm wondering if I should have dropped my money on a clean 32 instead of the new STI, whilst its a really nice car Im missing the angry RB.

Skylines break like any other modified car does. Maintenance is cheap.

Brand new 5 spead Gearbox $3000, rebuilt 1500, Dsg upward of 5k

Diff 400, priced a C63 diff lately? I would be scared to.

Gearbox, diff's and transfer case breaks due to launching at the limiter and flat shifting, like any other AWD car.

Oil pump breaks due to limited bashing, bottom end breaks due to high G corners on stickies at 7000 rpm+ with a standard sump, like any car.

Engine detonates due to no surge tank at high Gs on stickies and fuel starvation like any other car.

Name one 350 to 400 wkw car with that amount of traction that won't break.

Fark my mate's friend just spent $10+k fixing his drive line on his 400+kw G6E which cost him 50k to buy and has poured heaps of other money into it.

IMO gtrs are cheap to run and great performance for your $ if you know its limits, but every modified 400kw car have limits. If you go over the limits they will break.

Drive GTRs daily, look after them and they won't break and are cheap to run maintenance wise.

I agree with all of this, but will add one thing.

My 200kw Silvia is a substantially better track car than many 300kw skylines. for a fraction of the cost when talking pure lap times.

That's coming from an R34 GT-R owner, someone stupid enough to pay the premium over a nice 33 purely for the looks.

The Silvia is also much easier and all round cheaper to work on and has substantially better bang for buck.

S-Chassis or Evo for a Track car and the cheapest comfy auto daily I can get to afford the other 2 :D

I've been lurking on this thread as 34 values interest me greatly.

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1

Yeap, if you want to pay premium at a dealer for a used car, or you could buy private and save.

I wonder how much the dealer paid for them? negating any repairs that may have needed to be carried out.

There are heaps of newer cars around that drive better than Skylines, faster and better on the track, well unless the R is really modded up from the wheels to the hood, stripped to the shell , or both.

BUT not all of us are boy racers and love the Rs , because we luvem!

Before someone jumps on me, you do not have to be 20 ish to be a boy racer, if there was something close to where I live I would love to do some track driving, cannot imagine what it would be like to be going around a wide open road with no speed restrictions, trees, posts, gullies, cliffs, potholes, cows, Roos , one lane and cars coming in the other direction, must be heaven and a shit load of fun :)

  • Like 2

More or less yep, as I pointed out, I bought the 34 because I always had a boner for the Z Tune.

I enjoyed my 33R, but when I pull the cover off the 34, I feel like I'm 12yrs old.

As for resale values. I hope they don't go down lol otherwise me and a lot of other Nissan owners will be even more out of pocket.

I've already committed to keeping the Silvia given what's been spent and what it's worth, I don't need another expensive shed piece :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...