Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can't wait to get grilled. Can't wait.

SCENARIO:
I have an R33 GTS-t which 2 years ago I converted to a complete Aspirated setup (L Plates).

I now have a daily which I use 99.9% of the time but I still enjoy my R33 on odd occasions.

I want to revive my RB25 back to it's original turbo form because I'm still absolutely in love with the R33.

[Keeping in mind I'm still a Green P Plater (19y.o.)]

- When I do this:

> No FMIC

> RB20/RB25 turbo depending on which turbo has lowest chance of detonation on my RB

> Have a heat plate rigged up to hide the turbo as much as possible

> Will run the lowest psi physically possible

I've never lost a demerit point for speeding, that's not why I want to run the turbo.
I'm not interested in performance increase/decreases, I'm interested in having my R33 back in

it's beautiful original turbo form with the health of the motor at 100% consideration. I drive the car

to the beach on the odd occasion maybe once a month, that's the only use it gets.

Thanks for reading, someone please respond from a thermodynamics perspective.

post-142920-0-75910300-1459297708_thumb.jpg

Thanks for reading, someone please respond from a thermodynamics perspective.

Not possible. No-one here has a good enough grasp on the thermodynamics, nor is it likely that anyone has the experience of running a DET engine with one or the other turbo without a cooler.

Here's my advice. Don't consider an RB20 turbo. Too old, too small. RB25 turbo all the way, Probably even an OP6 to get the bigger ex housing and reduce exhaust back pressure a little. Install a fricken intercooler. Factory sidemounts are laid up in piles at the wreckers. But even if you don't the standard wastegate setting is 5 psi and you will not detonate running that pathetic amount of boost. It will barely heat the air up 30°C. There's the only thermodynamics I can put into the discussion.

Here's my advice. Don't consider an RB20 turbo. Too old, too small. RB25 turbo all the way ....... the standard wastegate setting is 5 psi and you will not detonate running that pathetic amount of boost. It will barely heat the air up 30°C.

Appreciate your response, I had a feeling I was going into this setup in the dark. It's only for a few months so maybe the RB25 turbo is the appropriate temporary

solution until I can safely put my GT30 back on it.

Do you mean no FMIC, or no intercooler at all?

The sensible option (if any, really) is use the turbo the ECU is expecting to see, which would be the R33 turbo. Realistically for the engine size its a really, really small turbo as is.

If its legal in a few months, spend the months getting the GT30 setup right and just drive it then.

the lowest psi you can run is the gate spring, on the RB25 manual tuborcharger from memory it is 7psi, on the auto RB25 turbocharger it is 5psi from memory.

if you want lower boos than this, then you can simply wire the wastegate flap open and youll probably get 1 or 2psi if you are lucky at full load

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi
ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

I'm trying to read between the lines a bit here...

So, you are worried about getting fined for driving a turbo skyline on your P's, therefore you don't want to run a sidemount intercooler because you think it will increase the chances of getting caught?

If this is the case, just install the factory sidemount and cross your fingers that you don't get caught.

If someone (said highway patrol officer) can spot a factory sidemount, they can spot the difference between extractors and a turbo exhaust manifold. So your screwed anyway. Might as well not take the chance on damaging your motor as well.

But of course common sense says you've been waiting a fair amount of time already, might as well just wait that little bit more.

Running a car designed and fitted with an intercooler from factory without an intercooler is not clever, from both a logic and "thermodynamics" perspective.

Driving a turbo car on your P's is stupid, just wait until your fulls. Is stock R33 turbo power really that exciting that you'd risk lots of money and your licence for?.. No it really isn't.

My advise would be get a hi flowed turbo and bolt it together with the standard manifold..

Must better turbo and no worries with detonation and options to increase boost..

You can pick a good one up for around 1k give or take a couple hundred

the lowest psi you can run is the gate spring, on the RB25 manual tuborcharger from memory it is 7psi, on the auto RB25 turbocharger it is 5psi from memory.

if you want lower boos than this, then you can simply wire the wastegate flap open and youll probably get 1 or 2psi if you are lucky at full load

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

I think the gate is 5psi but the solenoid bleeds it to 7 or something like that. R32 have 10psi gate spring.

I think the gate is 5psi but the solenoid bleeds it to 7 or something like that. R32 have 10psi gate spring.

you are correct

If you want to run no intercooler, best to go E85 or WMI

Rb30et had no intercooler standard and they didn't sht themselves.

If it used to be running a gt30, that would be harder on the motor than the little r33 7psi setup.

And they ran a stupid low compression ratio as part of the no intercooler package.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...