Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, sneakey pete said:

Not sure why mines 700rpm later with the same cams 

Guess more tuning will help a little.

You can always pull out timing so the EGTs are hot "turn" the turbo on, but torque with low timing at that load point vs. the torque with less boost at that load point with more timing could be drastically different.

 

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You can always pull out timing so the EGTs are hot "turn" the turbo on, but torque with low timing at that load point vs. the torque with less boost at that load point with more timing could be drastically different.

 

Bugger boost levels. Whatever gives the most Nm. 300 Nm and 2 psi is better than 150 Nm and 17 psi. But Boost is higher so must be better yeah? ?

 

16 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

Bugger boost levels. Whatever gives the most Nm. 300 Nm and 2 psi is better than 150 Nm and 17 psi. But Boost is higher so must be better yeah? ?

 

hahahah depends on the user, some want instant boost for the head snaps, some what linear and flat torque to minimize wheel spin and get good lap times :)

Customer is always right!

  • Like 1

For anyone who is interested

8374 with 1.05 rear on standard 2.6 engine on e85

Tyres with 275 Mickey Thompsons.

10.7 @ 133mph in Sydney summer. Was running 28psi on the night.

Will go again in winter and see how much of a difference the MPH makes.

image.png.bc8639922132aa30181dccaeb1374e57.png

 

  • Like 2
5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

hahahah depends on the user, some want instant boost for the head snaps, some what linear and flat torque to minimize wheel spin and get good lap times :)

Customer is always right!

Soft timing doesn't make the boost come on instantly or even necessarily much or any faster time vs psi, but yeah it does make for a more violent torque transition on spool which some people like.  Have to admit I've done similar things with valve timing etc where people wanted a slower car that they liked the feel of more.  Nothing wrong with that, either.

Edited by Lithium
8 minutes ago, usmair said:

For anyone who is interested

8374 with 1.05 rear on standard 2.6 engine on e85

Tyres with 275 Mickey Thompsons.

10.7 @ 133mph in Sydney summer. Was running 28psi on the night.

Will go again in winter and see how much of a difference the MPH makes.

image.png.bc8639922132aa30181dccaeb1374e57.png

 

What tyres were you running cause that’s a pretty good 60ft 

I'm just fitting a 26/30 in a cefiro. It's an r34 head that's been reco'd,  stock low km rb30 bottom end with head studs and new oil pump. 

I have a 9174 ewg 1.05 and twin 40 mm gates I was going to put on my gtr. 

Should I fit this to the cefiro now and buy another one for gtr later?

Is it overkill for a stock bottom end  as I was thinking 20 psi Max on this combo on p98 as I have the fuel system now to support 550 whp? 

Not sure how far to push the 2630.

 

 

4 hours ago, Piggaz said:

How modified is your head?

How big is your exhaust? 

Where are the cams set? (Mine are 0/0) 

Finalise the tune and see what happens.

Whats holding the final tune up? It’s been ages!

 

 

1mm OS valves, 3.5" all the way, 0/0 also. 

In terms of getting the tune done, the usual. Work, Life, the oil squirter coming out the sump. those kind of things. Hopefully get closer to it by march.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/19/2018 at 1:51 PM, usmair said:

For anyone who is interested

8374 with 1.05 rear on standard 2.6 engine on e85

Tyres with 275 Mickey Thompsons.

10.7 @ 133mph in Sydney summer. Was running 28psi on the night.

Will go again in winter and see how much of a difference the MPH makes.

image.png.bc8639922132aa30181dccaeb1374e57.png

 

 

Thats a huge MPH - i always thought low to mid 120s would be a high 10

1 hour ago, R377 said:

 

Thats a huge MPH - i always thought low to mid 120s would be a high 10

modern DSG, AWD, Launch Enabled cars yes - older things like our dinosaurs would need 130~140MPH to get it to boogie

  • Like 1

this is a long shot but i may as well ask the question and get thoughts of the guys on here.

Currently have a 8374 w 1.05 rear on a custom CRG manifold. The manifold was designed specifically with my turbo specs in mind.

I'm contemplating upgrading to a 9180 w 1.45 rear (with eventual goal and having a stroked motor), however at this stage the upgrade only seems viable if the turbo is a straight swap.

The concern is the 9180 with the bigger rear housing may not fit on to the current manifold.

I wanted to check if anyone on here has had experience with both 1.05 and 1.45 rear housings and is able to comment if the bigger rear would work with current manifold. Don't really want to dick around with new manifolds etc etc so won't proceed if it is not a straight swap.

Appreciate it is not a straightforward answer, however thought I'd check anyway.

Cheers

I believe the dump pipe has to move back 7-8 mm. Going to dummy fit mine soon. Seems like if you want to use all of the available compressor in both the 8374 and 9180 (moreso) the 1.45 is needed.

43 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

I believe the dump pipe has to move back 7-8 mm. Going to dummy fit mine soon. Seems like if you want to use all of the available compressor in both the 8374 and 9180 (moreso) the 1.45 is needed.

what about your manifold though? will it fit such a larger rear?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...