Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, MaximuSmurf said:

 Otherwise I'll just say f**k it and grab 2 x 38mm gates and go external setup which SHOULD get around the boost holding issue.

I posted something similar in this thread and Geoff from Full race said that it wouldn't make any difference.
Said it was more to do with the rear housing design than the internal gate.

Nice numbers by the way.

  • 3 weeks later...
4 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

Is there an ETA or any more info on the 8474?

I haven't heard anything beyond what is already in here, I'd definitely update the thread if I have information which I'd be able to share.

The information already in here is basically; shown off at SEMA 2016, someone had one on an evo earlier this year that made ~10% more power and that's about all we know?

Hadn't really paid much attention to it but a mate may be interested if they're going to be a thing before mid year.

How are you finding it on the 2.8?   Must be pretty perky at that power level [emoji3]

Comes on much much earlier than I thought, very sketchy at this power. I usually have it on 29psi setting still a handful to drive tho.
  • Like 1

comparing the dyno charts from both Umair's youtube videos, the 9180 looks to be pretty much 900rpm later than the 8374 everywhere. same engine, both 1.05A/R housings.

8374 is at: 200kw at 4450rpm | 300kw at 4650rpm | 400kw at 5050rpm | 500kw at 6800rpm

9180 is at: 200kw at 5460rpm | 300kw at 5470rpm | 400kw at 5910rpm | 500kw at 5910rpm

it appears the 9180 is being brought on a bit more gradually, then peak torque being liimited by timing (unless wheelspin?) as well

 

great to see some proper back to back figures!

8374vs9180.png

Edited by burn4005
added picture
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, burn4005 said:

comparing the dyno charts from both Umair's youtube videos, the 9180 looks to be pretty much 900rpm later than the 8374 everywhere. same engine, both 1.05A/R housings.

8374 is at: 200kw at 4450rpm | 300kw at 4650rpm | 400kw at 5050rpm | 500kw at 6800rpm

9180 is at: 200kw at 5460rpm | 300kw at 5470rpm | 400kw at 5910rpm | 500kw at 5910rpm

it appears the 9180 is being brought on a bit more gradually, then peak torque being liimited by timing (unless wheelspin?) as well

 

great to see some proper back to back figures!

8374vs9180.png

I did change from a 5 speed to a 6 speed (with factory 33 diff) between those tunes, which would have a material impact on the dyno graphs. I.e. it's not as bad/laggier as the dyno shows it to be.

1 hour ago, usmair said:

I did change from a 5 speed to a 6 speed (with factory 33 diff) between those tunes, which would have a material impact on the dyno graphs. I.e. it's not as bad/laggier as the dyno shows it to be.

If the ramp rate is the same and the rpm is set up correctly that should have no effect

I did change from a 5 speed to a 6 speed (with factory 33 diff) between those tunes, which would have a material impact on the dyno graphs. I.e. it's not as bad/laggier as the dyno shows it to be.

How are you finding the 6 speed mate?? Was it a headache to convert?

Also just out of curiosity why is it dynoed in 3rd. I know it doesn’t matter much but just curious as every tuner wants to dyno at 1:1 ratio or close to it

the 1:1 thing is a bit of a wives tale.

Final drive ratio has an inversely proportional relationship to velocity, and a proportional relationship to Torque.. so the gear ratio completely drops out of the power equation. 

Actual torque is really high in lower gears, any torque plot is just a 'normalized' plot at 1:1 mechanical advantage... really just brake torque neglecting drivetrain losses

dyno in a high gear so the dyno doesn't have to work as hard to retard the engine (especially if you want a slow ramp on a powerful car), but also at a speed that is considered safe.

300km/h is a lot of rotating momentum.

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 2
3 hours ago, Buraz said:


How are you finding the 6 speed mate?? Was it a headache to convert?

Also just out of curiosity why is it dynoed in 3rd. I know it doesn’t matter much but just curious as every tuner wants to dyno at 1:1 ratio or close to it

pretty straight forward to convert although apparently when converting into a 33, you have to remove a part or not connect a part (or something...... my mechanic mentioned it to me once) so on idle/at traffic lights the box just rattles lol. bit annoying but you get used to it.

other than that its awesome for street use. Not so awesome for the strip or roll racing as I'm changing into 5th just before the line.

Also a bit worried if i break something then it would be a very expensive exercise to repair.

Also an FYI - if all goes to plan I'll be heading out to WSID on 11th April to see what this extra power does for ET and MPH. Stay tuned.

  • Like 1

Wouldn’t you be starting in second for roll racing anyway?

cause I was using 1st to 4th in the 5spd and now with the 6spd I’m guessing I’ll be using 2nd to 5th, so itll be the same number of gear changes 

11 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Wouldn’t you be starting in second for roll racing anyway?

cause I was using 1st to 4th in the 5spd and now with the 6spd I’m guessing I’ll be using 2nd to 5th, so itll be the same number of gear changes 

Might try starting in 1st to get the 9180 to come quicker.  See how 50km reacts in 1st lol

37 minutes ago, usmair said:

Might try starting in 1st to get the 9180 to come quicker.  See how 50km reacts in 1st lol

With the 5spd I was at 6500-7,000 at 50kmh in first so was starting at 40 to make it useful, so with the 6spd I imagine it being even higher lol 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know what, I am enjoying your updates, but I have to say it is pretty poor form to walk into a shop that is paying for space and stock on the floor, try all their seats to work out what you are happy with, then buy somewhere else. If everyone did that the shop will be out of business with no opportunity for anyone to try a seat before buying. 👎  
    • Good work, and thanks for posting up your solution for future people!
    • Yeah mate that’s the plan, I just want something I can have fun in and work on during weekends.  There’s really only 1 road fit to drive the car on and luckily is been redone recently.  I do want to tune it next year sometime, no dynos here so I’m looking at an ECU that can be remote tuned. 
    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
×
×
  • Create New...