Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Butters said:

Don't think the g35-1050 will get there ?   

I am pretty close(720rear) on 26psi with scope for more boost and rpm.  

Very happy with the repsonse on a 2.6 with vcam, on a 3.2 it would be amazing. 

800-850 is a pretty big step up from where you are, imho you'd need to go up an exhaust housing size (or two) to support the extra power - especially on a 600cc larger donk.   That's going to take a lot of steam out of the response, and while it's not going to be rubbish still... it imho will shift it outside of EFR league (well, further outside of).    So I wasn't saying it's rubbish or not a valid option, just when we're talking about an EFR8474 then imho it's definitely a step backwards.   That's because EVERYTHING is a step backwards, nothing against the G35.

 

 

Edited by Lithium
1 minute ago, Lithium said:

800-850 is a pretty big step up from where you are, imho you'd need to go up an exhaust housing size (or two) to support the extra power - especially on a 600cc larger donk.   That's going to take a lot of steam out of the response,

Agree on a bigger motor a bigger rear would be the go.     I do wish I had a built bottom end to throw the extra 10psi at it to see what it would do. 

 

3 minutes ago, Lithium said:

That's because EVERYTHING is a step backwards, nothing against the G35.

It's very tempting to test this out. You can get them in a vband flange turbine side which would make it near direct swap. 

1 minute ago, Butters said:

It's very tempting to test this out. You can get them in a vband flange turbine side which would make it near direct swap. 

It wouldn't really be a valid test, my statements assume someone is running a native twin scroll housing.   Any observations I (and pretty much anyone else here) offer relating to EFRs assume twin scroll housings.  Any data for them and suggestions relating to them apply to the housings they come with.   

For it to be realistic it'd have to be a typical G35 setup and typical EFR setup, matched appropriately for the car they're going to be running on.

58 minutes ago, Butters said:

Agree on a bigger motor a bigger rear would be the go.     I do wish I had a built bottom end to throw the extra 10psi at it to see what it would do. 

 

It's very tempting to test this out. You can get them in a vband flange turbine side which would make it near direct swap. 

this is what I'll be doing - G35 - 1050 with 1.01 v band rear with rb27 and 35 psi would think be around mid/high 800 hubs still think

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Something else to consider with all the 9180 vs 8474 talk is that the 80mm turbine is the biggest culprit for flying out the back of the exhaust. The 74mm wheel is certainly the more "proven reliable" option. Even whilst over speeding.... But obviously if kept happy they are proven to be of OEM reliability. 

Just an update. I have the 8474 on the engine now (8374 previously)

It's about 100-200rpm laggier and makes an absolute sh$t tonne more power up top. The 8374 topped out at 650rwhp at 30psi. 

This 8474 is just f$c%ing dumb. At 26psi, it's making well and truly over 750rwhp and just keeps going. It doesn't fall over. 

RB28 with Vcam (264/272), 6boost manifold, 3.5inch exhaust, E85, Emtron KV8 etc etc 

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, The Mafia said:

Just an update. I have the 8474 on the engine now (8374 previously)

It's about 100-200rpm laggier and makes an absolute sh$t tonne more power up top. The 8374 topped out at 650rwhp at 30psi. 

This 8474 is just f$c%ing dumb. At 26psi, it's making well and truly over 750rwhp and just keeps going. It doesn't fall over. 

RB28 with Vcam (264/272), 6boost manifold, 3.5inch exhaust, E85, Emtron KV8 etc etc 

Well that's exciting news!  Can't wait to finally test mine out at some point!

Do you have a dyno chart?  Love to see her curves. 😍

16 hours ago, burn4005 said:

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade.

only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

I also pondered the same when ordering, but couldnt be bothered, so went iron. Mines a 9180, and its not really heavy either. 

21 hours ago, burn4005 said:

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade.

only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

GCG said there is about 5kgs difference, and no difference in strength. I went the iron core and haven't had any issues. Wasn't heavy either. Iron would handle heat better though I would say?

21 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Well that's exciting news!  Can't wait to finally test mine out at some point!

Do you have a dyno chart?  Love to see her curves. 😍

I don't unfortunately, I'm just looking at the calculated HP / torque in the Emtron which is about 5-10hp within the dyno readings. 

Plus, I have ID1300cc injectors running at 4bar so about ~1600cc and they were hitting 95% duty on E85. That is a dead giveaway to output. 

The 8374 at 30psi was only at 82% duty.

  • Like 2
11 minutes ago, The Mafia said:

I don't unfortunately, I'm just looking at the calculated HP / torque in the Emtron which is about 5-10hp within the dyno readings. 

Plus, I have ID1300cc injectors running at 4bar so about ~1600cc and they were hitting 95% duty on E85. That is a dead giveaway to output. 

The 8374 at 30psi was only at 82% duty.

A screen shot of boost / rpm log showing where target boost is hit would probably be pretty meaningful, I've already posted dyno plots of these things pushing 800+hp to the hubs on a 3litre - the flow potential of them shouldn't really be in question at this stage, but how it comes on with an RB28 would be pretty good data to see.   There is always talk about how good these come up between gears etc, but not that much data for people and I can fully see why people develop an attitude that the enthusiasm for these turbos are just fanboism, as opposed to earned respect for being that good.

  • Like 1
On 01/11/2022 at 3:31 PM, burn4005 said:

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade.

only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

Aluminium. It weighs 5kg without a turbine housing. Also Aluminium dissipates heat quicker so probably better on bearings etc. Also it won't rust and look old and Daggy like an iron core will eventually 

On 01/11/2022 at 7:21 PM, Shyboy said:

That sounds exciting👍Any graph ? I should get mine back in few weeks 

About time lol! How long ago was your car at my shop? 😆

Look forward to seeing it! 

I also wanna hear my exhaust! 😎

I would never have bought or recommended an EFR9280 for this kind of power level (helped by the fact I've seen less impressive results from them), there is not much info on exactly how hard this one is being pushed, but I still feel like this result is worth knowing about if you hadn't already given GameOn aren't unheard of or anything.

EFR9280 on a VVTi 2JZGTE making 1130hp @ hubs with respectable spool is a solid result no matter how you cut it

https://fb.watch/gA5azNc8fg/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...