r34 GTT brake upgrade

[admS15]

AP racing and Alcon is where it's at

[stranger12]

So to be clear what do you mean?

 

same quality as ap racing?

i am not familiR with brands mentioned so excuse my ignorence

i take it they are well known like ebc or brembo

Edited September 26, 2016 by stranger12

[GTSBoy]

K Sport and D2 are cheap Taiwanese/Chinese things.  Not terrible, but a long way from top tier products.  They basically rip off design features (like pad shape and piston size/arrangement) from top tier manufacturers and do it on the cheap in east Asia.  Plenty of people here use them, and are happy with them.

You asked what I would do?  For a street car I would keep the same 310mm brakes that came on the car.  At the very very most, if I wanted to upsize the rotors, I would go back to R33 calipers and use dogbone brackets to push them out to ~345mm (which is pretty much the limit to the disc size that that caliper will work on).  Been done heaps, is really cheap and retains a whole lot of well engineered Nissan/Sumitimo design.

[niZmO_Man]

He already bought the Evo calipers, so might as well throw them on (you have to buy dogbone brackets and 350mm rotors, plus brake lines).

That way, he has to bleed the brakes hahahaha.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

can't stop 300kW?

I had stock 296mm R33 GTS-t brakes stop a car making 370kW on the track... I only upgraded to Brembo calipers because I wanted more stopping power for the track.

Once again, user error and shit pads.

[stranger12]

bought evo caliper and waiting on brackets.

 

now I want to buy the K sport 6 pot 356 for rear.

would the brake ratio change if front is 350 and back is 356? does the size make a difference in brake ratio?

[V28VX37]

2 hours ago, stranger12 said:

bought evo caliper and waiting on brackets.

 

now I want to buy the K sport 6 pot 356 for rear.

would the brake ratio change if front is 350 and back is 356? does the size make a difference in brake ratio?

I does look like you're doing it the hard way I'm afraid.

You can have a decent brake setup using the stock calipers, just upgrade everything else around it, that's what I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

The soft pedal you talked about in the original post is most likely due to air in the system, keep bleeding it. To bleed the ABS you can crack open the lines at the ABS unit itself. Bleeding instructions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763812

 

Trying to match different front and rear calipers and get the brake bias right is going to be hard. The stock rears are smaller than the fronts for a reason, and matched to the stock BM50 master cylinder port sizes. Running bigger rears doesn't make any sense, and your bias is going to be way off.

In fact, bigger brakes are not automatically better – it depends on what you're using the car for. Massive track brakes with floating discs, ducting and 250-800C pads are going to rubbish on your morning commute.

Have a read of this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-faq-mythbusting-why-you-may-not-want-big-brake-upgrade/

[Roy]

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

I does look like you're doing it the hard way I'm afraid.

You can have a decent brake setup using the stock calipers, just upgrade everything else around it, that's what I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

The soft pedal you talked about in the original post is most likely due to air in the system, keep bleeding it. To bleed the ABS you can crack open the lines at the ABS unit itself. Bleeding instructions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763812

 

Trying to match different front and rear calipers and get the brake bias right is going to be hard. The stock rears are smaller than the fronts for a reason, and matched to the stock BM50 master cylinder port sizes. Running bigger rears doesn't make any sense, and your bias is going to be way off.

In fact, bigger brakes are not automatically better – it depends on what you're using the car for. Massive track brakes with floating discs, ducting and 250-800C pads are going to rubbish on your morning commute.

Have a read of this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-faq-mythbusting-why-you-may-not-want-big-brake-upgrade/

 

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

I does look like you're doing it the hard way I'm afraid.

You can have a decent brake setup using the stock calipers, just upgrade everything else around it, that's what I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

The soft pedal you talked about in the original post is most likely due to air in the system, keep bleeding it. To bleed the ABS you can crack open the lines at the ABS unit itself. Bleeding instructions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763812

 

Trying to match different front and rear calipers and get the brake bias right is going to be hard. The stock rears are smaller than the fronts for a reason, and matched to the stock BM50 master cylinder port sizes. Running bigger rears doesn't make any sense, and your bias is going to be way off.

In fact, bigger brakes are not automatically better – it depends on what you're using the car for. Massive track brakes with floating discs, ducting and 250-800C pads are going to rubbish on your morning commute.

Have a read of this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-faq-mythbusting-why-you-may-not-want-big-brake-upgrade/

 

 

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

I does look like you're doing it the hard way I'm afraid.

You can have a decent brake setup using the stock calipers, just upgrade everything else around it, that's what I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

The soft pedal you talked about in the original post is most likely due to air in the system, keep bleeding it. To bleed the ABS you can crack open the lines at the ABS unit itself. Bleeding instructions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763812

 

Trying to match different front and rear calipers and get the brake bias right is going to be hard. The stock rears are smaller than the fronts for a reason, and matched to the stock BM50 master cylinder port sizes. Running bigger rears doesn't make any sense, and your bias is going to be way off.

In fact, bigger brakes are not automatically better – it depends on what you're using the car for. Massive track brakes with floating discs, ducting and 250-800C pads are going to rubbish on your morning commute.

Have a read of this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-faq-mythbusting-why-you-may-not-want-big-brake-upgrade/

 

 

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

I does look like you're doing it the hard way I'm afraid.

You can have a decent brake setup using the stock calipers, just upgrade everything else around it, that's what I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

The soft pedal you talked about in the original post is most likely due to air in the system, keep bleeding it. To bleed the ABS you can crack open the lines at the ABS unit itself. Bleeding instructions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763812

 

Trying to match different front and rear calipers and get the brake bias right is going to be hard. The stock rears are smaller than the fronts for a reason, and matched to the stock BM50 master cylinder port sizes. Running bigger rears doesn't make any sense, and your bias is going to be way off.

In fact, bigger brakes are not automatically better – it depends on what you're using the car for. Massive track brakes with floating discs, ducting and 250-800C pads are going to rubbish on your morning commute.

Have a read of this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-faq-mythbusting-why-you-may-not-want-big-brake-upgrade/

 

 

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

I does look like you're doing it the hard way I'm afraid.

You can have a decent brake setup using the stock calipers, just upgrade everything else around it, that's what I did: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/

The soft pedal you talked about in the original post is most likely due to air in the system, keep bleeding it. To bleed the ABS you can crack open the lines at the ABS unit itself. Bleeding instructions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7763812

 

Trying to match different front and rear calipers and get the brake bias right is going to be hard. The stock rears are smaller than the fronts for a reason, and matched to the stock BM50 master cylinder port sizes. Running bigger rears doesn't make any sense, and your bias is going to be way off.

In fact, bigger brakes are not automatically better – it depends on what you're using the car for. Massive track brakes with floating discs, ducting and 250-800C pads are going to rubbish on your morning commute.

Have a read of this: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-faq-mythbusting-why-you-may-not-want-big-brake-upgrade/

 

I repeatedly post that as wise words have been spoken!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GTSBoy. I had some Performance Friction 343 rotors that I ended up using with soem CP5555 AP 6 pot calipers years ago. Before doing the dogbone for the AP caliper it so happened that the 280-324mm bracket sort of looked like a look with the 296mm R32 GTR/R33 GTS25T caliper

I abandoned the idea after trial fitting and playing with it. The 343mm rotor was a lot profile anulis rotor but even still I couldnt get the Sumitomo caliper to saddle down snuggly on the rotor. The difference in curvature I found was just to big. 

If you ground out the middle of the caliper at its outer tips to open up the radius of the caliper than maybe but all got to hatchet very quickly. Should never have got rid of that 343mm 6 pot setup. Mega under a 17" wheel

 

[stranger12]

my questions is , there is so many people installing 350mm front Brembo EVo and back Evo caliper/350mm disc from 350z

how do they acheive brake bias?

I guess you could use something like this ?

 

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/wilwood-brake-adjuster-knob-type-m-ba-wil?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=ShoppingUK&utm_campaign=ShoppingUK&vat=on&currency=GBP&gclid=CMjR2ankz88CFWkz0wodhpAE_w

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

BM57

Now I'm getting the feeling you want big brakes for bragging rights and car park meets. 

Because you've just ignore what eveeyone with real world facts, experience and track experience had to say.

Hey all good if it's just for looks,  but at least post that you want to achieve that, instead of insulting those who are actually trying to help out.

Btw. I can get you Hel lines delivered in black or clear or red for 140$ for all 4x corners.

[stranger12]

Sure and ofcourse I am not ignoring or insulting anyone.

 

Why would I do that to bunch of nice people here. that is why I have asked for help.

 

I hate the tiny discs as well which is major contributring factor to going big

I should have clarified that but also it is the braking performance I am hoping to achive.

Edited October 10, 2016 by stranger12

[GTSBoy]

On 08/10/2016 at 8:55 AM, Roy said:

GTSBoy. I had some Performance Friction 343 rotors that I ended up using with soem CP5555 AP 6 pot calipers years ago. Before doing the dogbone for the AP caliper it so happened that the 280-324mm bracket sort of looked like a look with the 296mm R32 GTR/R33 GTS25T caliper

I abandoned the idea after trial fitting and playing with it. The 343mm rotor was a lot profile anulis rotor but even still I couldnt get the Sumitomo caliper to saddle down snuggly on the rotor. The difference in curvature I found was just to big. 

If you ground out the middle of the caliper at its outer tips to open up the radius of the caliper than maybe but all got to hatchet very quickly. Should never have got rid of that 343mm 6 pot setup. Mega under a 17" wheel

Yuh, probably should have said the ~330mm mark as appropriate.  Had brain fade because some of the other options (like Evo calipers) work at the 345mm territory.

[V28VX37]

12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yuh, probably should have said the ~330mm mark as appropriate.  Had brain fade because some of the other options (like Evo calipers) work at the 345mm territory.

Big brain kit -> less brain fade lol

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, V28VX37 said:

Big brain kit

Can't afford it.  Can only afford the dogbone equivalent.

[V28VX37]

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Can't afford it.  Can only afford the dogbone equivalent.

As long as you don't have to grind the cranium she'll be right

[niZmO_Man]

He's in the UK Johnny lol.

Just save up for a kit from JDL brakes. http://www.jdl-brakes.com/nissan/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gt-r/brake-kits.html?order=price&dir=asc

[KiwiRS4T]

On 10/8/2016 at 8:02 AM, stranger12 said:

bought evo caliper and waiting on brackets.

 

now I want to buy the K sport 6 pot 356 for rear.

would the brake ratio change if front is 350 and back is 356? does the size make a difference in brake ratio?

That's getting into crazy territory. On my heavy Stagea I put D2 (=K sport) 8 pot 330mm on the front with Pagid pads and stock GTR two pot 297mm on the rear and that would pull it up from 250km/hr on the back straight and 240km/hr on the front straight lap after lap.

[chiksluvit]

Evo caliper is 4 pot no?
So 4 pot front and 6 pot rear? Same rotor diameter? Wouldn't this affect brake force distribution?

[GTSBoy]

6 small pots as opposed to 4 large pots.  It's not like a handful of 5c coins is worth the same as a handful of $2 coins.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

He needs a Albins gearbox too.