Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 30/03/2018 at 9:16 PM, WantGTR said:

Perhaps do a bypass?

2018-01-13_11-29-17

 

Hmmmm trying to think where I've heard this suggestion before?? 

But apparently it wasn't "a good idea" ?? 

 "Nah a surge tank will be easier"  ???

If she's not setup right all the maths in the world won't help you dude. 

Just listen to Paul f**k ya! His system is PROVEN to work at power levels that far exceed yours and probably his too!

 He basically handed you the formula for a million kw setup but you don't listen? DUUDE FARK!

The recipe ain't cheap..  But do it once! Gunna be cheaper than f**king around redoing shit! Or potentially costing you your motor Yeah?

Piggy has given you a recipe THAT WORKS! FOR FREE! It cost him a fortune and took alot of research and advice from some of the smartest kents in the game to aquire so Why argue? Just do it! 

  • Like 1
7 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Hmmmm trying to think where I've heard this suggestion before?? 

But apparently it wasn't "a good idea" ?? 

 "Nah a surge tank will be easier"  ???

If she's not setup right all the maths in the world won't help you dude. 

Just listen to Paul f**k ya! His system is PROVEN to work at power levels that far exceed yours and probably his too!

 He basically handed you the formula for a million kw setup but you don't listen? DUUDE FARK!

The recipe ain't cheap..  But do it once! Gunna be cheaper than f**king around redoing shit! Or potentially costing you your motor Yeah?

Piggy has given you a recipe THAT WORKS! FOR FREE! It cost him a fortune and took alot of research and advice from some of the smartest kents in the game to aquire so Why argue? Just do it! 

Actually copied the bypass from Goodezilla. 

Piggaz was very helpful too but theres more than one way to skin a cat.

You are right. Fuel systems arent cheap. I was originally going to do pump and injectors... shit blows out i guess

Edited by WantGTR
  • Like 1

It's fine Mick, I'm not copying Paul's set up as I don't intend to run a big lift pump so there's no need to run a bypass on the flex sensor. I'm sure his set up is amazing and he has spent heaps of time and money on it but I don't need a set up of that calibre.

Running a flex sensor between a surge tank and the main tank is fine, it's not pressured and the lift pump would be a DW200 or so, meaning the flex sensor itself won't be any form of restriction between the two.

Yes you can run the flex sensor on the rail return line back to the surge tank with a bypass like Paul but there's no need for my set up.

And yes I've done the maths there's no need for me to have a massive lift, there's no possible road or race track that can drain the 2.5L surge tank with my mediocre power producing RB, don't intend on making anything more than 450kW (nice to have power) but realistically about the 400kW mark is good anything more will be hard to handle on the track.

Johnny, isn’t the whole idea of a surge tank to have it full ALL THE TIME? Not 3/4, half sloppy around tank, empty at the end of the straight then turn into turn one, when you NEED IT!

Why not just run twin intank pumps? Defeated the purpose of a surge tank IMO if it’s not full all the time. ?

walbro 460 lift pump. The surge tank comes with -8 sized threads. Bit silly to go from -8 and pay for a a -8 to -6 adapter. Keep it -8 and put a bigger lift in it. You have 2x 460’s emptying the surge tank.

  • Like 1

Will be fine, DW200 will do 355 L/hour at 0psi so that's 5.92 L/min.

Now I have 1550cc Bosch injectors by 6. At best they would be at 70% DC (I reckon less) so that's 6.5 L/min fuel consumption at max load. 

This means at max load at x rpm I would drain the surge in 54 seconds. 

Now there isn't a road straight and long enough to have the motor running at a fixed rpm at max load for even more than 20 to 30 secs at best. The only time I could see this happening is on the dyno load holding at x rpm and y load for a good minute lol.

I still need a surge tank, I found at Wakefield at times the motor would cut out at the back straight when the car had less than a 1/4 of a tank left. Twin internal pumps won't fix that also I won't have a line to run the flex sensor without needing a bypass.

all this talk about fuel systems

i just went with the don mega piggaz/scotty fuel system and called it a day... DONE. Yeah it's $$ but it's also PEACE OF MIND. I did question scotty if i could get away with a smaller lift pump but was told 'dont do it!!!!'......

~bakemonoricer.

So much cringe. So so much. Jesus christ.

Johnny it's good to see you being realistic with your setup VS your requirements. Why throw thousands of dollars at something when spending 1/3 as much will satisfy your needs. Us gts-t guys realise that we don't need a fuel system to support 800hp.

GTR guys and SR20 fags ^^ sure do love burning cash.

  • Like 4
  • Haha 1
  • Confused 1
8 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

So much cringe. So so much. Jesus christ.

Johnny it's good to see you being realistic with your setup VS your requirements. Why throw thousands of dollars at something when spending 1/3 as much will satisfy your needs. Us gts-t guys realise that we don't need a fuel system to support 800hp.

GTR guys and SR20 fags ^^ sure do love burning cash.

I concur. AI triple pump surge, 10an feed and return. Should be sufficient for your setup.

  • Like 1
I concur. AI triple pump surge, 10an feed and return. Should be sufficient for your setup.
10?!?

If you are going 10 you may as well just go 16. It's only $10/m more. Should be enough to support 2000hp comfortably.
  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...

Some updates, after pulling out my flex sensor I've been able to command the injectors to do what I want but when I drop say I set the IPW at 1.5ms or under they still don't like it too much. Probably has to do with the fact they're 1550cc and I'm running a batch fired ECU. 

So solution? I drained the tank and poured in E85 and set the ethanol concentration to 85% when the flex sensor is not detected. Here it is now with 26 degrees of timing on idle, 14.7:1 AFR (gasoline scaling), 1.7ms IPW and idle at 900rpm.

 

  • Like 5
On 4/24/2018 at 8:59 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

For good measure, car went to Mexico for stress testing.

IMG-20180422-WA0006.thumb.jpg.0d32612fc41fc08ad538ea96bce205db.jpg

That's disgusting. Some people think they can do anything on a public road.

Probably in a school zone with mum's with prams.

If I was a cop I would hunt down and throw the book at that total wanker...................

 

 

Parked illegally in the white land cruiser.

  • Like 3
  • Haha 8
  • 2 weeks later...

Fixed up my cold start because it was bothering me, although the ECU will be upgraded and the tune will pretty much useless going to a different brand - but yeah, cold autumn morning and it fires first go now :)

Yes my tacho is fuuarked.

 

  • 4 weeks later...

I am back from 1 month of no SAU and car shit :)

Adaptronic is coming out, and is now for sales. $800 for SAU members $850 for Facebook or Scumtree or eScum

10 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

I don't want to but it, can you just give me the 50 bucks difference?

Or you could buy off me for $800 and hustle $900 or more and pocket the difference.

Buy low, sell high!

2 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

Halaltech time?

Of course!

Can't wait for everyone to tell me it will "lose" tunes and for motors to spin backwards. 

Although I've tuned half a dozen of then and not a single car has issues :)

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...