Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I meant something like the China Spec or local custom made ones compared to Nismo, Greddy and Jap brands etc. Even compared to the high quality ones, are they really worth 5 times the price??

I've just taken a 600x300x100 Trust/Greedy tube and fin intercooler out of the car as it is just not doing a good enough job at 500kw at the wheels.....it was just making too high temps on the intake.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Sub Boy32 said:

I've just taken a 600x300x100 Trust/Greedy tube and fin intercooler out of the car as it is just not doing a good enough job at 500kw at the wheels.....it was just making too high temps on the intake.

That's surprising, I've seen people make 400kw quite easily with a 63mm version, you'd think that 100mm would be much more capable. 

I've got a HKS Type R 100mm core myself and will be approaching 500kw eventually and would have thought it would hold up fine.

Interested to see how people have found Plazmaman/PWR etc compared to these japanese coolers.

4 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

I'm hoping to do close to 500 with a plaz 76 but i'm realistic that it might run into issues. at that point not sure what i'll do though. Maybe cooler spray.

I just find it strange how they can rate their 100mm at 1500hp+ when an equivalent jap cooler is ~800hp. Must be more that goes into the design than I thought.

Did you get the standard cooler or the pro series?

It's not just about how much power a cooler allows a motor to make, it's more so how efficiently the cooler can cool down the charged air and also how much of it can flow through the core.

Yes a China dim sim sui mai special may flow nearly identical to say a Plazmaman cooler however would definitely cool way less if you measure the IAT post cooler. For each run or pass you'll notice the intake temps will climb however first pass everything seems normal and this is where you'll hear people say bs like "I made 500kw on the stock cooler" then I day sure, let's increase the overall ramp duration on the dyno so something like 11km/h per sec so it's a nice and long run. I highly doubt the numbers would be identical at that point. 

So yeah, long story short get a good cooler.

  • Like 3
  • 11 months later...

Bit of a thread bump here.. are the plazmaman cores made in aus? sounds like a stupid question but its something i cant seem to find the answer to, obviously they build the end tanks and weld them in house but i was curious about the cores.. cheers

Edited by azzada1
25 minutes ago, azzada1 said:

Bit of a thread bump here.. are the plazmaman cores made in aus? sounds like a stupid question but its something i cant seem to find the answer to, obviously they build the end tanks and weld them in house but i was curious about the cores.. cheers

Made to order in Wetherill Park, NSW :)

I can get you great pricing.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...