Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

I've been searching for hours, and I probably still missed some good info, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for.

So I have a new bare N1 block. I want to do a 2.8 kit for my BNR32. I don't want to get into an RB26 Stroker vs RD28 or RB30 argument here, lol, I have my reasons for going the route I am, and would rather focus on the info I am after. 

I mainly want to hear from people who have ran any stroker kit such as Nitto, Spool, JUN, Tomei, HKS, Etc (with mileage & power numbers if possible) their experiences in terms of driveability, power delivery (obviously dependent on turbos as well), and most importantly, reliability over time. I've been leaning towards Nitto, because I want to keep as long as a connecting rod as possible (I think the Spool 2.8 kit also has the factory length rod as well vs a shorter rod like the Tomei kit for example), for things such as increased dwell, decreased piston speed and side loading. 

I've read that Nitto (and Spool) outsource some of the parts (the crank itself I believe) to China, which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it does leave me a little hesitant. With that said, I know the majority of "Japanese Brands" also outsource their manufacturing (primarily to Taiwan in my experience). It all really comes down to quality control, which is why I'd like to hear from owners of said stroker kits and engine builders who've installed various brands on their experiences.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469730-rb-stroker-kit-reliability-quality/
Share on other sites

I've also wondered about the quality of crank shafts in the popular stroker kits as you can go on alibaba and buy one from China for thousands less then through a vendor like nitto or spool etc. and if theirs also come from China well I've seen plenty of high hp cars successfully running them [emoji848][emoji848]

  • Like 1

I've seen a tomei making 475kw or 635 aussies hp at the wheels (will be more soon) and hasn't show any issues at all. 

driving it, I love the way it drives down low and I never realized what I difference .2 of a liter could make

 

can anyone confirm if the spool has the factory rod length?

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, LaurelPWR said:

I've also wondered about the quality of crank shafts in the popular stroker kits as you can go on alibaba and buy one from China for thousands less then through a vendor like nitto or spool etc. and if theirs also come from China well I've seen plenty of high hp cars successfully running them emoji848.pngemoji848.png

I would suspect the ones coming from Alibaba would be free of Nitto's/Spool's quality control (so possibly the rejected ones), so I'd steer clear of those! The factory's will do anything they can to make back what they can on rejected parts.

6 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I've seen a tomei making 475kw or 635 aussies hp at the wheels (will be more soon) and hasn't show any issues at all. 

driving it, I love the way it drives down low and I never realized what I difference .2 of a liter could make

 

can anyone confirm if the spool has the factory rod length?

Is this your own car by chance? If so, how long/many miles have you had it?

Evidence suggests that Nitto are the preferred option for most big HP cars, in saying that I know Rigoli have a few big HP cars running spool and a friend of mine is building a 3.2 spool stroker as we speak so will be interesting to see how that comes up.

 

The HKS stroker kits would have to have some special benefits given the price over say Nitto.

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, 2_Liter_Turbo said:

Is this your own car by chance? If so, how long/many miles have you had it?

It's actually a good mates car and I couldn't tell how many kms it's done but has been a few and it get driven hard when ever it does get driven 

  • Like 1
34 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

It's actually a good mates car and I couldn't tell how many kms it's done but has been a few and it get driven hard when ever it does get driven 

Awesome, that's good to hear!

you need to know your eventual goal first, if you want to be a competitive drag racer one day, then build 26/30-34, if you want to stay street the revier 2.8 is the way to go

obviously can't beat the jap quality if you have the coin, otherwise the
nitto/brian crower quality is also good

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, GD51LA said:

by the way my mate just bought a stroker sr20 crank from china and after picking it up from being tuned the bottom end shit itself, after the inspection the crank was to blame

Know by chance which brand it was? I'd expect to hear BC, knowing their reputation for poor quality SR stuff (I've been doing SRs since '05, so I have more experience with them, RBs I'm new to, lol).

3 hours ago, GD51LA said:

you need to know your eventual goal first, if you want to be a competitive drag racer one day, then build 26/30-34, if you want to stay street the revier 2.8 is the way to go

obviously can't beat the jap quality if you have the coin, otherwise the
nitto/brian crower quality is also good

Goals are for a high powered super fun street car. I may go to the drag strip once in awhile, but I am not after any records or competition. I road race my S14, so I have enough "race car" to keep me happy, ha ha. I just want a fun street car again. I am thinking of doing a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. But maybe an EFR 9174. I'd like to find what sort of powerbands people are getting with those on RB's before finally deciding.

Edited by 2_Liter_Turbo
by the way my mate just bought a stroker sr20 crank from china and after picking it up from being tuned the bottom end shit itself, after the inspection the crank was to blame


This is the info I wanted to hear! First hand experience with China stroker crank... Cheers mate
17 hours ago, 2_Liter_Turbo said:

Goals are for a high powered super fun street car. I may go to the drag strip once in awhile, but I am not after any records or competition. I road race my S14, so I have enough "race car" to keep me happy, ha ha. I just want a fun street car again. I am thinking of doing a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. But maybe an EFR 9174. I'd like to find what sort of powerbands people are getting with those on RB's before finally deciding.

Talk to Full-race about a Borg Warner EFR, go see them in person if they aren't too far away from you.

6 hours ago, Sick_R31 said:

Talk to Full-race about a Borg Warner EFR, go see them in person if they aren't too far away from you.

I intend to! I already have their EFR 7163 kit for my SR that I picked up in person ;) They are about 25 minutes from my house, ha ha!

  • 8 months later...

Had another question, figured I'd add to my existing thread rather than start a new one!

Does anyone have pictures of how far the piston comes down in relation to the cylinder walls? I want to see if how much (if any) of the skirt gets exposed from the sleeve before going back up the cylinder.

After stroker kits obviously, not the factory setups. 

Have been running a HKS 2.8 Step 2 (6466 turbo on E85) at 740whp since feb 2015. 

First year copped very frequent motorsport use (2 events a month) 

It has been parked up since as I now live overseas so doesn't give you too much to run off.  

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...