Jump to content
SAU Community

S15 vs Evo 7-9 Track Car  

18 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

No Golf R love aye?

MK6 Golf R can be had for under 30k (nearly same price as GTIs).. in stock form with a decent driver and only decent street tyres will nail down a 1m10~11 at Wakefield Park. Now imagine some R-compounds, better pads (not even brake upgrades), a better seat in the car. I suspect in the right hands a 1m7~8s, then come the suspension and power mods later down the track.

Not to mention it's a direct injected motor - you'll be see power/torque from as low as 2k rpm.

Until it throws a fault code :P

What's wrong with Subaru? I have a 5th gen Lib GT wagon, more room than a Jeep Cherokee SRT, goes alright. It's about to hit 240,000km, no issues besides wear and tear, as expected from a high mileage country car. Not a track car though so off topic :P

Subaru seem to be quick in the UK, so they can't be that bad.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Not to mention it's a direct injected motor - you'll be see power/torque from as low as 2k rpm.

and get to clean the intake of carbon build-up whenever it feels like its losing power. yay!

18 hours ago, Hadouken said:

 


Hah what a great clip, you know they put always Tsuchiya in the fastest and best car ;) 

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

No Golf R love aye?

MK6 Golf R can be had for under 30k (nearly same price as GTIs).. in stock form with a decent driver and only decent street tyres will nail down a 1m10~11 at Wakefield Park. Now imagine some R-compounds, better pads (not even brake upgrades), a better seat in the car. I suspect in the right hands a 1m7~8s, then come the suspension and power mods later down the track.

Not to mention it's a direct injected motor - you'll be see power/torque from as low as 2k rpm.


The other two have much better aftermarket parts support, especially in WTAC formats. Parts more expensive for everything on a Golf. Plus it's a Golf...
 

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Until it throws a fault code :P

What's wrong with Subaru? I have a 5th gen Lib GT wagon, more room than a Jeep Cherokee SRT, goes alright. It's about to hit 240,000km, no issues besides wear and tear, as expected from a high mileage country car. Not a track car though so off topic :P

Subaru seem to be quick in the UK, so they can't be that bad.

Weak boxes, weak bottom ends, shitful motor to work on, inferior AWD system. All track specific points, but that's the context of the discussion. I have never seen a WRX or STI go faster than anything else of similar mods, and in many cases lesser mods and less money spent. They suck.

Any company that intentionally puts an untuned length manifold on a car to create a "unique" sound at the expense of torque/gas flow/heat build up is stupid.



 

No Golf R love aye?
MK6 Golf R can be had for under 30k (nearly same price as GTIs).. in stock form with a decent driver and only decent street tyres will nail down a 1m10~11 at Wakefield Park. Now imagine some R-compounds, better pads (not even brake upgrades), a better seat in the car. I suspect in the right hands a 1m7~8s, then come the suspension and power mods later down the track.
Not to mention it's a direct injected motor - you'll be see power/torque from as low as 2k rpm.

I owned 1 with pretty much all mods before needing to go to a bigger turbo and to be honest they r not that impressive. They are good off the line zipping around town but they fall over massively in the top
  • Like 2

Fast = Evo

Fun = S15

Tru64?

Agree with the Subaru view though, it seems only Cosworth/Prodrive are putting effort into Subies, but they're big dollar builds. For the average steerer, Evo seem to be the go-to car. You're going to strip the interior anyway so who cares what they came with from factory :P

  • Like 2

For FWD enthusiasts you just can't go passed a Honda with a turbo. It makes me sick seeing what off the shelf parts they have available. It literally feels like the perfect shopping list race car with less labour than every other commuter car.

  • Like 2

Common Emo faults? 

6spd not great? 

Seen people needing to do SAYC "rebuilds" on E7s, but have no idea what that's a rebuild off (transfer case? centre diff? do they even have a centre diff?).

How much weight can come out of them easily without going silly they are surprisingly heavy. 

 

Bit of left field here but I'd recommend Renault Megane RS.

Brilliant little car comes with LSD and cup suspension which is stiff as, amazing car to drive as I've enjoyed driving it around Nurburgring and European alps. I managed 250km/h on Autobahn in one of these (de-restricted of course) and I reckon it's the most lively and soulful modern car. 

Early 2010/11 models can be picked up for $15-18k and chuck a set of decent semi slicks on it - I went to Nurburgring with bog stock Dunlop Sport MAXX's. 

On 6/29/2017 at 5:48 PM, Count Grantleyish said:

Bit of left field here but I'd recommend Renault Megane RS.

Brilliant little car comes with LSD and cup suspension which is stiff as, amazing car to drive as I've enjoyed driving it around Nurburgring and European alps. I managed 250km/h on Autobahn in one of these (de-restricted of course) and I reckon it's the most lively and soulful modern car. 

Early 2010/11 models can be picked up for $15-18k and chuck a set of decent semi slicks on it - I went to Nurburgring with bog stock Dunlop Sport MAXX's. 

They are brilliant - I'm actually thinking of buying one in the next 12 months, after driving a 275 RS Cup along the old pacific highway

Prices are low due to epic depreciation and the suspension setup has been done by people who know what they are doing, its pretty much perfect out of the box. Some of the later cars even run an exxy adjustable ohlins setup with composite springs and pilot sport cup 2 tyres

Edited by junkie
error

Get an s chassis! Don't see enough being used for track days!

S15 are great except for fragile 6 speed over an s14 5 speed. Plenty of aftermarket parts as well.

With simple mods the SR20 seems pretty reliable. Mines been going strong on 200kw for last few years. Recently bumped to 240 so will comment again after few more track days! [emoji23]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...