Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jez has been really good to deal with, would 100% recommend him, trigger kit is in, he replaced timing belt, installed new alternator, new 1650cc injectors, fuel rail and fpr, installed surge tank, speed pro fittings, Teflon braided lines, fast read intake temp sensor, wideband and has gone the extra mile to modify my exhaust for maximum flow by cutting out any sections where the diameter dropped and made it all the same, modified and ceramic coated my dump pipe.
Rear diff had a leak so he stripped it down and put new seals and fluid. Moved all the wiring on the turbo side to inside the guard and put a heat shield around the air con lines. Relocated the power steer reservoir and supplies and fitted an oil cooler.
Should be tuning it this coming week. But I think I’m going to ask him to install a twin plate clutch, probably go with direct clutch, don’t think the Jim Berry single plate will hold/last with the power it will make. I’ve told Jez to tune it best he can for response and mid range pull, I’ve told him to push it to around 500-530kw so I’m hoping we can reach that with not a huge amount of boost. Turbo is a 68/70. Should be able to reach that target with 30-35psi boost. But I’m
Not fussed about numbers, what’s more important is i want it to feel fast on the street so I’m hoping for a really strong midrange.

Once I get it back will be fitting my LMGT1’s, want to get my brembos powder coated and re fitted, some nismo mats for the interior and I like that Momo, Monte Carlo custom wheel that’s wrapped in alcantara so might order one of those. Also have a genuine nismo strut brace that I’ve had freshly powder coated to fit.

Future plans will be quaif diff front and rear and I’d love to get a sequential behind it!

 

But first it will be off to GTR festival!

How do you post videos, was on the dyno today, just sorting out a few gremlins, car has made 470 ish kw on 24psi
Sounds like an animal on boost, can’t wait to get in the drivers seat

  • Like 1

Green line is low boost setting, however due to the small gate, (single 44mm I believe) boost was still creeping to 28psi. The gate opens at 20-21psi.
Red line is boost controller holding gate closed to 29 psi.
So even though outright power is similar, low boost will have substantial less pull as you can see by the midrange curve

Is there a reason the boost isnt 40psi?? Lol piss the low boost off and keep the 'high' boost setting. It looks like the power is levelling off at the top on the redline, are you running out of turbo?

Not sure but doubt it, reason I’m keeping it to 500 is to save the motor, it’s still running standard girdle and main caps which I’ve heard are a weakness in the rb30 and trust me, it’s enough, car is wild on the street. Midrange pull is insane, at low boost.
I also asked for it to be tuned for midrange/bottom end response, not top end, Jez told me it would be at the sacrifice of hp up top.
So it’s probably a number of things, tune, cams, cam gear position, exhaust? (Could also be a restriction).
Turbo will make 600 if we turn it up, but I’d like it all to hold together for a bit.
And the poor gearbox wasn’t designed to hold what’s running through it now [emoji848]
It drives unbelievably well, pulls hard from idle and builds boost fast considering the size of the turbo.
I’m really happy with the result, it’s adequate for the street [emoji16]

  • 1 year later...

Well haven’t been on here for a while, still got the car and still throwing money at it. 
Currently it’s now fitted with a PPG sequential gearbox and I had a custom 4’ exhaust made for it, 4’dump pipe, ceramic coated, new turbosmart 50mm pro gate which is now plumbed in, 4’ cat which continues right through to a 4’ varex muffler. It’s at Powertune at the moment getting a Motec fitted and flex tuned. Haven’t had the car for about 10 weeks so I’m looking forward to getting it back and spending some time in the drivers seat. 
 

5D9F250A-9B03-40D1-B645-4E225E318609.jpeg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...