Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5

Before I have my r32 tuned on a haltech, I want to install new turbos. My goal is 600-650hp. Currently making 530hp on R34N1 turbos. Cant decide between gtx2863,2530 or 2860-5.

Current setup

530@19psi

2.8l (supposedly tomei stroker)

tomei cams

tomei manifolds

nismo intake manifold

700cc injectors

nismo fpr/pump

N1 oil pump and water pump

R34 N1 (AA403) turbos

hpi elbows 

mines frontpipe

Decat

HKS exhaust 

tomei ecu

IMG_1715.JPG

IMG_1794.PNG

Ever looked into a modern twin scroll single turbo?

You'll get your power goal with ease and be given an excellent power band along with fantastic transient response.

  • Like 1

I'm making around 290 awkw on GT-SS. 

Putting in a set of newly rebuilt HKS 2510 with GTX2863 compressor wheels (not the whole CHRA) this week. I.E, they end up being a 2510 turbine, turbine housing, compressor housing with the GTX wheel.

Will report back in the Dyno thread by the end of the week if i wasted my money or not :-)

 

13 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

I'm making around 290 awkw on GT-SS. 

Putting in a set of newly rebuilt HKS 2510 with GTX2863 compressor wheels (not the whole CHRA) this week. I.E, they end up being a 2510 turbine, turbine housing, compressor housing with the GTX wheel.

Will report back in the Dyno thread by the end of the week if i wasted my money or not :-)

 

What power are you shooting for with that setup? 

15 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

What power are you shooting for with that setup? 

Hoping for your generic -5 power on a standard unbuilt 26 with pump fuel. I.E 340 -350 awkw on around 22 psi. In theory i should have similar to -9 response with -5 power.

Depends on how healthy my motor is, and final tune..

Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 8.34.24 PM.png

Edited by djvoodoo
upload pic
  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, GT-R David said:


I think this is what almost everyone wants.
Im looking forward to see the results.

Too good to be true :-) Well, we should find out by Friday. I've read the whole GTX thread, and most people are using the 2863 CHRA with mixed results. This turbo is not the same, so a little unsure how they will react on my setup.

Motor health for me will determine how aggressive final tune can be. I've had a few dud tunes over the past 4 years so trying to be on the cautious side.

Check out what@ActionDan has achieved with -9s in his build thread:

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460737-z-tune-inspired-r34-project/?do=findComment&comment=7839063

It is food for thought on what is possible with a reasonably standard looking engine bay (if that is what you want / need).

[quote I.E 340 -350 awkw on around 22 psi. In theory i should have similar to -9 response with -5 power.
I've got this [emoji16] but it's achieved through a 26/30 build with -5 turbos, amazing response and making 360awkw on 22psi.
And at roll racing the other night, wasn't much that could hold me through 2nd and third gear

This is the mystery engine that somehow made 395rwkw on N1s? 

I'm using a bigger set of turbos and E85 and only managed 380rwkw, which I thought was considered decent for -9s. That's with N1 manifolds, good intercooler, big dumps, big exhaust etc. 

The only way you're going to retain N1/-7/-9 like response and make a minimum 447rwkw/600rwhp is to go full twin scroll (twin gates) single and most likely e85 and bump up the capacity decently.

200cc of extra capacity is not going to change the lag considerably. 

What dyno did the car make the 530rwhp on? Or is that 530 calculated engine HP? 

You can reach 600 rw murican HP a lot easier than you can Australian HP. 

Our dynos seem to read very differently. 

If we ignore the numbers and just say you want to make 15-20% more power to the wheels at minimum (530 -> 600/650) and you can currently do 530 on N1s, any of those turbo combos will get you there, but the car will not be as responsive. 

You can look at putting better ramp rate/lift cams in as the Tomei are known for being a little soft, ramp especially. With cam gear adjustments you will "almost" match the response but with substantially more grunt up to. 

Otherwise, more cubes and full spec TS setup :)

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, Trailmix said:

It was on a dynocom 5000FX, which is a AWD Dyno. Though all the pulls where made in RWD. You can see the engine HP/TQ at the bottom of the graph. 609hp /453tq

I think what most people here are trying to say is R34 N1 (or -7) turbo's do not flow enough to make 400rwkw, even with a 2.8l. They are a 500ps range turbo.

 

 

No matter the difference in dynos. My turbos are not that responsive low end like a -7 should be not seeing full boost until 5500 range. The gtx2860/2863 should spool up around the same, as my current setup? 

Edited by Trailmix

No idea because lots of what you say is contradictory? 

N1s basically ARE -7s so if they are magically not that responsive yet make 530rwhp, then maybe they are not N1s?

You will also LOSE response from having bigger cams, if you're not compensating with gear adjustments, timing changes etc. 

Post some dyno graphs with RPM and Boost. 

I think you need to work out what you actually have first. 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...