Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Debating going to a Spool spline Drive oil pump gear setup, has anyone seen any failures, weird wear?

I currently have a Tomei Pump, Recently broke the Snout of my crank off at the track (no idea why) this has me thinking about switching to a different perhaps better setup.

 

Whats everyones thoughts on this these days..

There’s quite a few workshops in Melbourne who’ve used them with N1 oil pumps for years now. From Rb28’s to RB34’s. No failures or breakages, have run mid 7 second passes well over 1000hp and 8500rpm without issues and still going strong. Wish I did it when I had my motor built

  • 1 month later...
On 5/16/2018 at 4:49 PM, mitchum said:

Debating going to a Spool spline Drive oil pump gear setup, has anyone seen any failures, weird wear?

I currently have a Tomei Pump, Recently broke the Snout of my crank off at the track (no idea why) this has me thinking about switching to a different perhaps better setup.

 

Whats everyones thoughts on this these days..

If you have a Tomei Pump you do not need to scrap it. We supply a full conversion to Spline Drive. You would be better off with a Tomei as it it a better overal Pump.

D4CB4B58-AC83-4468-B4AE-D96D9D41E860.jpeg

16 hours ago, Frracer said:

If you have a Tomei Pump you do not need to scrap it. We supply a full conversion to Spline Drive. You would be better off with a Tomei as it it a better overal Pump.

D4CB4B58-AC83-4468-B4AE-D96D9D41E860.jpeg

I went with the Spool gears, yours are almost double the money.. i agree the Tomei pump is a better housing however.. having that much flow seems to cause more issues then it fixed..

 

Edited by mitchum
3 hours ago, burn4005 said:

I'm confused, a tomei rb26 oil pump is a spline drive. What Harmonic damper were you using when the snout snapped?

Its still driven by the conventional method 2 flat spots on drive.. there are splines on the Tomei gears but not technically a spline drive.. my Tomei didnt fail me however it got pretty beat up with the crank snout breaking. I was using a Ross pulley.

I went back to an N1 pump housing i ported the entry and exits so it flows a little easier.. 

Tomei pump is good and all but having that much flow isnt really needed IMO.. causes more issues than it fixes with oil pooling in head and or sucking sump dry... Stock VG30 pumps and 2JZ pumps work just fine for 1000hp.. no reason a properly driven N1 pump cant supply a sufficient amount of oil.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I have installed the Spool spline drive gears in a New N1 housing that i ported a bit. Its in the car and running. Seems to be working well.

 

My only concern was the fairly low pressure at idle.. used to be about 20psi with the Tomei. It is now at around 12psi hot.. but goes up quickly with revs so should be fine as long as it doesnt go any lower.

This engine should make north of 800whp so report back if anyone wants updates.

  • Like 1
21 hours ago, mitchum said:

I have installed the Spool spline drive gears in a New N1 housing that i ported a bit. Its in the car and running. Seems to be working well.

This engine should make north of 800whp so report back if anyone wants updates.

Would be good if you have a few pics of the work on your pump housing?

And with the hp level, presuming you might have the right sensor setup to log oil pressure?  Be good if you can post up a log run to show oil pump performance

FWIW (might not even be on-topic) but I also decided to NOT go the spline drive route, after reading countless forums, blog posts, watching fat Jim talk about oil pumps and shit it seems the general consensus is that the spline drive needs the motor to have perfect tolerances, etc.

Most of the time when we build motors, we all end up line boring the block, this "generally" shifts the crank position by a bee's dick and because your oil pumps cannot be shifted that direction by whatever you end up unevenly driving the spline drive.

With my new motor for the shitbox, I just re-used the OEM NEO oil pump (which I believe it similar as a N1) and used the Spool billet gears. Crank was machined down, and the extended collar fitted with 2x grub screws.

I also run a host of sensors and can log oil pressure vs. engine speed vs. oil temp and water temp for anyone interested. It's on a Haltech Elite with no additional boxes (no need to insert Haltech box jokes). Happy to post whatever data people want :)

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

 

Most of the time when we build motors, we all end up line boring the block, this "generally" shifts the crank position by a bee's dick and because your oil pumps cannot be shifted that direction by whatever you end up unevenly driving the spline drive.

 

This is exactly what happens when you line bore, and when you do go spline driven pumps you are meant to take out the locating pins on the block for the oil pump. Install the pump, finger tighten the bolts turn the crank a few times to center it up and then tighten the bolts to spec. 

23 hours ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Would be good if you have a few pics of the work on your pump housing?

And with the hp level, presuming you might have the right sensor setup to log oil pressure?  Be good if you can post up a log run to show oil pump performance

I just blended the entry and exits inside the pump so they would flow better than a straight sharp edged hole.

3 hours ago, r34unit said:

This is exactly what happens when you line bore, and when you do go spline driven pumps you are meant to take out the locating pins on the block for the oil pump. Install the pump, finger tighten the bolts turn the crank a few times to center it up and then tighten the bolts to spec. 

I used a dial indicator to setup the pump, drilled the dowel holes larger in pump housing and centered pump over crank with 2 dial indicators. What ive noticed over the years of building these engines is even from the factory..  the alignment isnt spot on, which could be the reason some guys get away with stock oil pumps alot longer than others.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...