Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am thinking of upgrading my fuel system to E85 and wonder what sort of power I will get with my -5 garrets?

I have to upgrade my injectors anyway to push these turbos further on 98 but will I get much more power going to e85?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474790-e85-twin-turbo-5-power-results/
Share on other sites

Current mods are

 

-5's

Dumppipes

3.5 inch

Tomei pon cams type b

tomei valve springs/retainers/guides

mild port n polish

big sump

tomei oil pump

hks f con

Full built bottom end and balanced

Good radiator

Nismo intank pump

600cc Nismo injectors

Tomei FPR

Oil cooler

 

New mods.

Frenchys performance in tank twin fuel pump setup -8an

2x Walbro 450hp each e85 pumps

3 -8an 200 series fuel lines

TurboSmart FPR -8 AN 

76mm Pro Plazmanm intercooler

Twin entry fuel rail

1650cc ID Injectors

Link g4 with ethanol sensor

Nice. Built as in forged or just rebuilt? And remains 2.6?

And you get yours with the -5's on it or did you install them?

E85 will be the juice of the gods for you! Keen to see the power curve with that setup when it gets up on the rollers. Also I feel you will be going single in no time at all! 

 

eFully forged bottom end.  Tomei Pistons and Nitto Conrods.

does have stock crank.

still 2.6.

Yes well single turbo.....pockets are not that big at the moment.

The driver for this is to get rid of the HKS F-con V as no one  good can tune it in NZ now.  So if I am going to retune I may aswell set it up better.

with the 600cc injectors maxed I got 384KW ATW's but we pegged it back abit for the street I got about 375ish.  I have 30,000 KM's so far on this tune and build.  Soichi who was a legend here in NZ did fantastic work.

Edited by Stixbnr32

I got just shy of 500hp with a fairly tame -5 setup + e85 (details + dyno in build thread in sig if your interested), based on a recent tear down it's likely not all cylinders were round at the time ?

Best thing about e85 compared to 98 was filled all the shortcomings of the low-mid range the setup had, it took a fun, but laggy setup to something very usable in all situations.

Car should be back in a couple of weeks as most of the work is done now, so will be interesting to see what a fresh 2.6 with only a mild compression bump produces in comparison.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/27/2018 at 3:08 PM, Stixbnr32 said:

 

with the 600cc injectors maxed I got 384KW ATW's but we pegged it back abit for the street I got about 375ish.  I have 30,000 KM's so far on this tune and build.  Soichi who was a legend here in NZ did fantastic work.

Still in NZ?  Who will be tuning it?  I'd expect with a decent fuel system on board you should be able to go WELL into the 400kw @ hubs range on their dyno, I'd say high 400s could be doable.  One of the lads I know cracked 500kw at DTech with his HKS 2530Kais with some ethanol on board on a good RB28 build :)

On 9/11/2018 at 8:55 AM, Stixbnr32 said:

Yeah still in NZ.  Hopefully one of the boys joe kyle or glenn suckling.

Joe doesn't tune. In Auckland now that Soichi has gone to Aus that really just leaves Glenn Suckling ...although there are tuners in Papakura and Pukekohe that I don't personally know).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...