Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All

I can't seem to find this problem anywhere. After highway driving for 20 mins or so and leaving it in 5th I hear a slight whine from diff at 80kph. I have changed the diff oil to nulon 75w90 correct spec and it made absolutely no difference. 

Any idea what the problem is? And no vibration at all.

Some say additives work some say they don't but I don't want to fork out for the redline stuff for it not yo fix anything. 

Ideas pls?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478849-r32-gtst-diff-whine-after-warmed-up/
Share on other sites

On 10/4/2019 at 11:10 PM, Dil-Dog said:

Time to weld it ?

Welding won't fix it, it will be due to pinion bearing wear and the pinion/ring gear mesh is slightly off causing it whine. 

Needs rebuild to fix, and depending on how long its been driven like this the pinion/ring gear might need to be relapped. 

-Blake.

  • Like 1

My $0.02.

In other words, crown wheel and pinion is rooted. Maybe not totally rooted but if it's making noises the damage has been done and they're on the way out. Need new MATCHED set, installed and shimmed correctly for correct gear backlash. There is no magic fix for worn diffs and no additive is going to fix it, no not even that Redline crap everyone raves about.

I stuffed mine that bad in one of my GTRs in the front (where people usually run lighter oil) that the crown wheel and pinion gears were actually razor sharp to the touch, which is a lot of wear if your familiar with crown and pinion gears. It made all sorts crazy noises under load, and why your noise is appearing once the diff oil is hot and thinner in your differential. I will never run ANYTHING other than 75w - 140 in any GTR diff front or rear again after that. After 19 years of GTR ownership anyone who runs stuff like 75w - 90 in any GTR diff front or rear is asking for trouble. I know it's a gtst but same thing basically. Anyone tells you to run 75w - 90 is a dickhead and asking for a diff rebuild, unless changed very regularly and / or has very little power.

It's all about protecting the crown wheel and pinion and the heavy stuff does the job, especially when most people don't drop their diff oil that often.

Motul comp gear 75w - 140 or Castrol Syntrax 80w - 140 (used to be SAF-XA) or you may as well put water in your diff.

Both the Castrol and Motul is generally around the $30 - $45 a litre range. Most other reputable oil companies have diff oil in that range too, Castrol and Motul just seem to be the top pick and Castrol is readily available. Castrol used to be the most recommended by companies like Holinger and Albins until the Motul stuff came along.

On 10/7/2019 at 11:46 AM, LINK17 said:

I think this is the problem, I checked the diff oil and it's 75w90, thanks for the great advice. 

I love the motul stuff but can't find where to buy except stupid prices online?

I use the Motul or Nismo oil. Its expensive but you don't need much and have you priced a diff rebuild?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...