BNR34 1200 HP

[Sultan34]

Hi

 

I'm planning to modified my BNR34 up to 1200+-hp but in UAE here is poor experience to modifying RB engines. So please any body can help me to list the parts I need it to build this power?

 

If there any suggestion or advice it will be must welcome. 🙂  

[Ben C34]

Your not getting a list for that mate. That's money is no object territory, just ring up some Aussie shops and place the order for a complete package delivered to you.

[BK]

Yeah that's ring CRD or Maatooks and part with $250k+

[burn4005]

I'd love to know how you could possibly spend 250k on an engine package.....

a billet block (or cast block, partial grout and a brace) and Nitto Stroker kit is only 25 grand, add 10k for a full house head, a few grand for 625 bolts/studs and you're most of the way there.  Precision 7685, a couple of gates, manifold, Motec M150.. and you're at maybe 50k assembled.

RIPS racing in NZ has a lot of experience building engines for UK guys and shipping them so I'd be giving them a call.

Edited February 5, 2021 by burn4005

[UWISSH!]

1: put car in shipping container addressed to either CRD or Maatooks

2: sign blank cheque and place in car

3: sit back and twiddle thumbs till car returns 

[BK]

2 hours ago, burn4005 said:

I'd love to know how you could possibly spend 250k on an engine package.....

Labour.

See below, that's how. If your asking on how to build 1200hp your not building it yourself are you ?  It's not "just" engine, it's the whole car that needs to be addressed, while paying someone else to do it.

1 hour ago, UWISSH! said:

1: put car in shipping container addressed to either CRD or Maatooks

2: sign blank cheque and place in car

3: sit back and twiddle thumbs till car returns 

 

[joshuaho96]

On 2/4/2021 at 4:19 PM, burn4005 said:

I'd love to know how you could possibly spend 250k on an engine package.....

a billet block (or cast block, partial grout and a brace) and Nitto Stroker kit is only 25 grand, add 10k for a full house head, a few grand for 625 bolts/studs and you're most of the way there.  Precision 7685, a couple of gates, manifold, Motec M150.. and you're at maybe 50k assembled.

RIPS racing in NZ has a lot of experience building engines for UK guys and shipping them so I'd be giving them a call.

Cost to build goes up dramatically as power numbers increase. On top of that you have to pay for frequent rebuilds, nothing making 1200 hp does it for very long. If every rebuild requires you to either ship an entire car to another continent or drop the engine and ship that to another continent the costs are going to skyrocket.

There's really no such thing as a cheap build with RBs. The costs are laughable compared to a Hellcat Redeye crate engine which is under 30k USD and starts you at 800 crank hp on pump gas, completely emissions compliant and FCA has already done all the ECU tuning + setup for you. Run E85 and you're probably going to get to 900 whp no problem, no other changes needed. It won't be laggy either, the displacement helps tremendously with driveability.

IMO the instant you start setting non-trivial power goals for an RB a lot of soul searching is needed to justify it. The cost is insane, the compromises are big, and you're setting yourself up for a car that will live in a trailer towed from one drag event to another.

Edited February 7, 2021 by joshuaho96

[junkie]

For the price of a stock R34 you may as well buy a current model RS6 and add this https://www.mtm-usa.com/collections/rs6-avant-c8/products/mtm-ecu-conversion-stage-4-audi-rs6-c8-1001hp and still have a useable stupid fast car

[joshuaho96]

1 hour ago, junkie said:

For the price of a stock R34 you may as well buy a current model RS6 and add this https://www.mtm-usa.com/collections/rs6-avant-c8/products/mtm-ecu-conversion-stage-4-audi-rs6-c8-1001hp and still have a useable stupid fast car

If we're just trying to find the highest horsepower per dollar car you could just do this and get within spitting distance of 1200 hp crank for 55k USD: https://www.lebanonfordperformance.com/2020-1000hp-mustang-for-54995/

Personally I think the RB26 GTR with -7s or comparable is enough power, but I have a weird obsession with things like good street manners and an engine that won't blow up if I don't use Motul 300V/Valvoline VR1 and change it every 2000 miles or whatever crazy maintenance regimen is involved in keeping a 600+ whp RB26 alive.

[GTSBoy]

Any more than ~500 engine HP is almost certainly a waste of time for a street car.

But the UAE is not the real world, so real world rules do not apply.

[GDZ32]

Just buy WARGTR. It's for sale and has a Nitto 3.2L making 1400hp with all the bells and whistles. 

[WantGTR]

2 hours ago, GDZ32 said:

Just buy WARGTR. It's for sale and has a Nitto 3.2L making 1400hp with all the bells and whistles. 

/end thread

[hattori hanzo]

 

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Any more than ~500 engine HP is almost certainly a waste of time for a street car.

But the UAE is not the real world, so real world rules do not apply.

Sounds like something someone with only 500hp would say

[GTSBoy]

Don't even have 400. Wouldn't mind 500. Can't see how I could use much more.

[joshuaho96]

2 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

 

Sounds like something someone with only 500hp would say

where is this mythical promised land where you can actually use 800+ hp on the street safely?

[r32-25t]

It’s very easy with e85 and modern turbos and there’s a difference between having it and using it. There always a low boost setting or even using less throttle. Driven cars with over 650hp at the wheels and down low they drive just as good or even better then a factory car 

[Mick_o]

Its already sold. Buy tickets in raffle to win it instead 

[joshuaho96]

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

It’s very easy with e85 and modern turbos and there’s a difference between having it and using it. There always a low boost setting or even using less throttle. Driven cars with over 650hp at the wheels and down low they drive just as good or even better then a factory car 

Right, but in order to get to 700 whp for example you need a turbo that can flow that kind of air. If you then turn the boost down to 1 bar for street use then you're only clipping the portion of the RPM range where the engine would be making more than 1 bar, if you never intend on exceeding say 450 whp you could run a smaller turbo in the same family to get better transient response. Instead of an EFR 8374 you could run a 7163 or maybe even a 6758. 

[r32-25t]

But when about when you want to go to a track and use all of it?

[joshuaho96]

4 hours ago, r32-25t said:

But when about when you want to go to a track and use all of it?

Everything is a compromise, personally I'm not enough driver to actually use a big power build effectively on the track anyways.