Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 11/11/2021 at 3:04 PM, r32-25t said:

You don’t need oil restrictors in garret turbos 

and the power figures and etc I quoted are from experience and not from reading stuff on the internet 

There is a built in restrictor on the GT2860/GT2859, but there's some asterisks there. If you run more oil pressure than stock, if you change the feed lines for some reason to a larger diameter, variables like that can require you to run an additional restrictor.

On 09/11/2021 at 1:48 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Buying these cars requires a type of mindset, at times I think buying any JDM requires some form of slight mental retardation.

I'll use myself as an example, buys a $5k R33, spends over $70k on it (I have a full spreadsheet of every part/machining/fab work that has been done/bought for the car. That list does not include anything maintenance related and the endless workshop hours, dyno hire, etc.) over the past 9.5 years.

There are days I regret it and wish I bought a M3, there are days I marvel at the beauty of the heap of shit.

Lol so true

I hear some of you say its a no brainer going single turbo but my reason for upgrading the twins is because its cheaper, easier to do (?) and because it looks stock and therefore I wont have any problems at the MOT wich is very strict here.

On the other hand it would probably be better going single because of better power, sound and less problems overall with heat ect..

If I were to go single, what is the best turbo kit for r34 gtr out there? 

Personal opinion but I think the days of putting singles on GTRs is over for most people. They have clearly become a classic/collector's car rather than something where you are looking for a very fast daily driver (plus, most of the GTRs with singles live in a garage on stands anyway). 

A set of old fashioned -7 or -9 twins and keeping the standard intake piping as mush as possible is they appropriate way these days. 

  • Like 3
  • Sad 1
On 11/15/2021 at 9:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

Agreed!  Its also the risk of the ceramic wheels that drive the need to change

On 15/11/21 at 3:51 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

I hear some of you say its a no brainer going single turbo but my reason for upgrading the twins is because its cheaper, easier to do (?) and because it looks stock and therefore I wont have any problems at the MOT wich is very strict here.

On the other hand it would probably be better going single because of better power, sound and less problems overall with heat ect..

If I were to go single, what is the best turbo kit for r34 gtr out there? 

Either precision 6466 T4 .84/1.00, gtx3582 gen 2 .83 or g35-900 .83. Still a decent size turbo with good response and make power. These are the kits below come with everything you need to do a swap

https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/rb20-25-26/products/turbo-kit-nissan-rb20-25-26-garrett-g35-900-1050-6boost-manifold-turbosmart-50mm-gen-v-wastegate?variant=39564236914875
 

 

https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/rb20-25-26/products/turbo-kit-rb30-garrett-gtx3582r-gen-2-ball-bearing-6boost-turbo-manifold-turbosmart-50mm-genv-wastegate?variant=15660088950893

 

https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/rb20-25-26/products/turbo-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26-precision-6466-gen2-6boost-turbo-manifold-turbosmart-50mm-genv-wastegate?variant=31400803270765

On 15/11/2021 at 10:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

I still have them :) standard ECU standard engine (restrictor removed from the bleed valve thingy). I even run (barely) Yellow Jackets :D

On 11/15/2021 at 11:07 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, well, I should avoid chucking stones inside my glass house. Standard turbo still on my Neo, for example. But it's not quite the same level of suck.

Actually, it probably is. But it's not a GTR. A GTR deserve a lot more turbo.

I think it's the other way around. The Neo is a better motor, and the turbos that come on stock way way way way way way way too small. It's not as though the Neo has a 270kw turbo setup on there from the factory like the 26 does 😛

On 11/11/2021 at 11:28 PM, r32-25t said:

-7s are the r34 n1 turbos (and the nismo r1) they are direct bolt on and will make 500hp at the wheels with e85 and cams 

-9s are the same as hks gtss turbos are will bolt also bolt directly on and make the same power as the -7 (some believe with slightly better response)

the -5 is slightly smaller then the hks 2530 and are a lot more laggy then the -7/-9s, they require different oil drains that are easily sourced which then makes them a bolt on turbo and can make more like 600hp at the wheels if the rest of the set up is done right  

So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?

On 16/11/21 at 6:19 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?

Yes they all bolt straight over 

On 15/11/2021 at 11:04 PM, niZmO_Man said:

I still have them :) standard ECU standard engine (restrictor removed from the bleed valve thingy). I even run (barely) Yellow Jackets :D

wallah you want a Nistune? pull out your ECU and we'll get it done through my trade account :) 

On 11/14/2021 at 3:00 PM, GTSBoy said:

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

My R33 had standard turbos when the engine was pulled as a part of the chassis refresh. I didn't trust them though and never drove the car with them.

On 11/15/2021 at 11:19 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?

The -7s are R34 N1 turbos, but R34 N1 turbo covers something like 3 distinct part numbers. The -7s I believe correspond to 14411-AA403. If you ask Nismo they believe that the -7 spec turbos have worse transient response if you're aiming for relatively low power, hence why they released the R3 turbo kit recently which is closer to the earlier AA401/AA402 turbos:

image.thumb.png.2e663ac4360add2fa0f602f21cc4f99c.png

https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/nismo_parts/NEW_PARTS/index_2021.html#a22

Their 450 PS claim includes a healthy derate from what the turbos are capable of pushed to the limit, it's also using an engine dyno: 

 

 

On 16/11/2021 at 2:09 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wallah you want a Nistune? pull out your ECU and we'll get it done through my trade account :) 

I actually have a broken Nistuned ECU. But yes need to Nistune. Also Need to throw on the R34 N1 turbos and oil cooler, then I'll contact you hehe

  • Like 1

Just to be sure before I buy, can someone verify that this is the right -7 that I need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303055603645

Will 340lph fuel pump work for 500+ crank hp, like this AEM one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323980413969?epid=1217828034&hash=item4b6ebccc11:g:mH4AAOSwnxxdzcru Will this just mount right in the tank or do I need some different hoses, connections ect?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...