Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Laundering money by building drag cars for fun and prestige is just another way of emptying cupboards full of dirty drug money

The amount of people laying wads of cash to suppliers, workshops and jewellery stores is astounding 

How do people people think that all these "unemployed" people driving around in big dollar cars and bikes, draped in gold do it

The old "I pay cash" is strong in their world

  • Like 2

I'd be interested in a new cast block that is primarily interested in fixing the more obvious issues with the RB26 design. Core shift and thin walls is a big one. Another is oil control. Improving the oil returns and feeds is one thing but what would really make me be willing to drop 8k USD would be a lot of engineering/validation devoted to the block/oil pan to integrate internal scavenge pumps and make the engine capable of surviving 1.3g continuous. Being able to confidently push hard on tracks without being afraid of oil surge/excessive blowby would be amazing for peace of mind. Also not having to drill and route even more hoses and all that fun stuff for crankcase ventilation so it retains a relatively factory look and feel would be great. 

I would also want this block to be first and foremost street-oriented. It needs to just work with low p2w clearance pistons.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Let's go to the judges and figure out who knew first. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turns out some.othwr bloke, Steve, knew before any of you.

I reckon Herman knew before Steve though 

4 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I said it in an earlier post that they were 

Yep, you also said , been years and no eta. 

Just thought people would like the offical line and an update on timing. 

 

Forgive me for not crediting your prior post 

On 14/10/2022 at 2:02 AM, Butters said:

Yep, you also said , been years and no eta. 

Just thought people would like the offical line and an update on timing. 

 

Forgive me for not crediting your prior post 

Didn’t give an eta because I first heard about this years ago and was told at last years gtr fest it would be good to go end of last year and yet here we are with 2 months to go in 2022 and still no block

On 13/10/2022 at 10:13 PM, Butters said:

If so, the someone will have to cut my head off before I buy a fkn shit PRP piece of dump.

  • Haha 1
On 10/9/2022 at 11:31 AM, r32-25t said:

Cast blocks have the issue of the cradle walking and require a fair amount of work to try and rectify.

1/2in head studs are usually desired to keep the head down but the deck ends up weak and cracks.

the bores flex and end up either being oval or crack, also with core shift in the casting process you can end up with thin  spot which either makes them only good for one over bore or not good for even one

Saw this thread on blocks and it takes me way back to dinosaur days with my old Holden red motor sixes and its seems that the same issues with the in line sixes keeps on repeating in regards to main cap and cradle walking.

Got to agree with r32-t on the work that needs to be done on them to get them to survive high horse power applications.

I had to sonic test the blocks I had for wall thickness and core shifting, sleeve them down with thin wall ductile or nodular iron sleeves (can't remember which), grout fill the block.

Also had to machine a cradle or crank brace ( whatever you want to call it ) got a two inch thick block of steal, the length of the motor and width of the sump rails and machine it out to replace the main caps and drill out the sump rail mounting bolts and bolt it all up. Dry sumped it etc etc blah blah blah

This tended to be the best way to get the most strength out of them. 

Next engine I built would 100% be the PRP cast block.  They're not stupid so they will cover EVERY weak point of the engine and remedy it.  Yeah $8K is a larger initial investment than either your own existing block or buying a new factory block but you won't need to spend anywhere near as much on it to make it strong enough to handle big power.

It will be interesting to see if they have a base engine with options on top or just have a fully inclusive package.

 

3 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

 Yeah $8K is a larger initial investment than either your own existing block or buying a new factory block but you won't need to spend anywhere near as much on it to make it strong enough to handle big power.

 

That was my thinking when I bought the billet block, yes it costs more to begin with but it wasnt much more compared to buying another cast block and doing everything to strengthen it properly and I still would have had a weaker block at the other end 

7 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

That was my thinking when I bought the billet block, yes it costs more to begin with but it wasnt much more compared to buying another cast block and doing everything to strengthen it properly and I still would have had a weaker block at the other end 

100%.

With a factory block you're always going to be chasing your arse adding to it or assuming at some point it's going boom!

1 hour ago, DaymoR32 said:

how much are greentop barra's these days? 😆

Which one? BA, BF or FG

BA BF = $100 for a long

FG = $150 for a long motor 

My mate at work is constantly bending my ear in all things Barra

Not bad for a base that is so capable and easy to build for small change

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, DaymoR32 said:

how much are greentop barra's these days? 😆

still waiting for some to awd sump convert for a gtr install, same with an LS too haha

 

Seen an awd ford ute with one that ripped..  territory running gear though. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...